The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.

[GeoffM]

Timing and cooling and carbs, OH MY

Welcome to the Quick Question Thread. (there are no stupid questions)

What is the Quick Question Thread?
Do you have a small general or technical question that doesn't deserve its own thread? Well partner, you've come to the right place!

Why do we need a Quick Question Thread?
The main reason is to cut down on clutter on the boards. These boards are such a great technical resource for all us Roadster owners. This thread hopefully will cut down on the volume of single reply threads about stuff that has been asked many times.

Guidlines
- Have a small question that needs a small answer? Ask in here! Do you want to have a full on discussion of a specific technical topic, by all means start a new thread.
- Cut people some slack in this thread. We all know the link to the Wiki. If someone asks for Spark plug gap advice, don't troll. Just move on or answer their question.

Useful Links
Most questions can be answered here:
http://www.311s.org/pmwiki-311/pmwiki.php
Also, try you hand at using the search functionality of this board:
http://www.311s.org/phpBB3/search.php

Hopefully the guru's will monitor this thread and help out, but you don't need to be a Guru to answer questions!

[DnCrs13]

I hope this is the type of question you are looking for.

I have original chrome and aluminum trim on my 68 that has a good amt. of surface rust and dirt. I want to try to clean them up to avoid the cost of replating. My light bezels look like they might have the pot marks, so I don't think I can clean them, but what would be the best method for the rest. I have some plastic "steel wool" , is this too harsh? What products would people recommend for cleaning? Thanks for your assistance.

Dan

[Skyman]

Wouldn't just a "most frequently asked questions" page suffice? A lot of the information I have gleaned from this wonderful site has come from discussions that have strayed a bit from the main topic. I would hate to provide any type of intimidation factor that would deter someone from posting even the most basic question.

Am I missing your point?

Kyle

[DnCrs13]

Kyle,

I am new to this site and honestly, you scare the crap outta me. LOL, Totally kidding. I will be the first to admit that I am no expert at these, or any cars. This is an amazing site. The search function has served me very well.

I think the point of this thread is to save people the long searches through all the information available. It should provide a quick response from anyone available at the time, so that you can get back in the garage and solve what ever your problem might be. At least that is how I read it. Either way, I am just happy to have this tool available to all of us roadster fans.

Dan

[GeoffM]

Hi Dan,
Yes that is the type of question. Have you tried nevrdull? :
http://www.nevrdull.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Hi Kyle,
This thread is to help people increase discussion, not discourage it. We already have the wiki and search which would suffice as a FAQ. I would hope that this thread is less intimidating to ask a question in than posting a new thread. Yes, this thread may raise the bar with regards to what people think deserves a new thread but in doing so will raise the quality of the board in general.
Many other boards have a quick question thread to cut down on clutter. If it doesn't work here than we axe it. No biggy. Let's try it and if it doesn't work out then Steve can delete it.

Cheers!

[Skyman]

Kyle,

I am new to this site and honestly, you scare the crap outta me.

Well, that would be the first time I have scared anyone. I hope I don't come across like that. Maybe I'm not getting the gist of the post?

t should provide a quick response from anyone available at the time, so that you can get back in the garage and solve what ever your problem might be.

This site has certainly provided this for me. I was just hoping this was not going to turn into a "do a search thread". I use the search feature all the time. So do many others. I don't think we will ever get away from the questions that get asked time and time again. I think a "quick reply" thread might work.

Kyle

[DnCrs13]

Well, that would be the first time I have scared anyone. I hope I don't come across like that. Maybe I'm not getting the gist of the post?

I have not been intimidated by anyone on here. Everyone has been very kind and understanding. The car, on the other hand, intimidates me. I sometimes forget that sarcasm does not read well in emails, especially if you have not talked to the person before.

I think this thread will be good.

Thanks Geoff, I will check that out.

Dan

[ppeters914]

FWIW, I have seen this idea tried on other boards...usually without success. If it works here, great.

Personally, I find it redundant after a FAQ, the TechWiki and using the Forum Search. Granted, the FAQ needs updating and organizing to be more useful, but, for whatever reason, the same questions are gonna get asked again and again ad nauseum.

[EScanlon]

I hope this is the type of question you are looking for.

I have original chrome and aluminum trim on my 68 that has a good amt. of surface rust and dirt. I want to try to clean them up to avoid the cost of replating. My light bezels look like they might have the pot marks, so I don't think I can clean them, but what would be the best method for the rest. I have some plastic "steel wool" , is this too harsh? What products would people recommend for cleaning? Thanks for your assistance.

Dan

Depending on the grade of the plastic "steel wool" (I know it as a Scotch Scuff Pad), you may find that you'll very quickly scratch the surface beyond repair. To my knowledge, you can get from Black (the nastiest and strongest) to White ( the softest and very gentle). In between you'll find a Maroon which is strong enough to sand paint with, and a Grey/Green which will cut the shine off paint or primer. But all WILL scratch aluminum and most chrome. (The white will take longer but it too will scratch.

Nev-R-Dull is an excellent suggestion, it will do very well on most harder finishes / metals, but it too can scratch the weaker flash chrome finishes (i.e. the Toggle Switch back plate), so test it.

I would recommend first washing in soap and water to remove any oils/waxes. Then using a very light grade polishing compound (such as you would use on jewelry or expensive dinnerware cutlery) start there then work your way up. Experience will guide you later as to what works better where.

I like the Nev-R-Dull for the harder chrome finishes, and a product from the POR 15 folks called Artesan Polish which can give you billet like finishes on aluminum. I've also used Brasso, and Tarn-X. Then, if that still doesn't work, there are liquid rouges you can apply with a felt wheel/disc/cone and a high speed grinder or polishing motor. This last process is tricky and may be extremely messy... enough so that a lot of people leave it to the experts.

Sadly, the headlight trim rings get a lot of abuse in normal use (dirt/bugs hitting them at 60+ mph is NOT a nice thing for chrome metal), and the chrome isn't the thickest plating I've seen. You might end up shopping/trading around until you can find a nice set.

But as a last recommendation, be sure to protect whatever metal you polish afterwards. Whether you apply a heavy duty clear coat, such as Glisten PC (from the POR 15 folks, excellent stuff, but needs special prep and cure time), have it anodized (possible high $), simply coat it with wax (hard to remove swirls) or use a product like Maas Metal Protector (basically a cream... easy to apply but needs re-applying every few months), you need to protect the finish from requiring re-polishing. Unless you enjoy doing it....

HTH
E

[dbrick]

I'm with Enrique on the polishing. If you have spare parts in worse or unusable shape, use them for a test piece. Maybe this quick answer would work a seperate topic heading, if it gets interesting, thread can move to Tech or general, or delete after 90 days?

[DatsunBucky]

Kyle,

I am new to this site and honestly, you scare the crap outta me.

Oh, c'mon! He's Kyle, not "Walter."

Seriously, welcome to the site. I do agree with Kyle. There's been a lot of useful info on here from threads that strayed. When I get on the site, I click on the view new threads link and go through each one. Those that have information that I want to keep without searching, I just do a screen shot and then file it away for future reference.

[DnCrs13]

I just do a screen shot and then file it away for future reference.

I like this idea, I might have to steal it.

Enrique, thanks for the detailed response. I will look into that some more and try a few out. I have a bunch of extra chrome and aluminum test pieces that came with the car, so I can play on them first.
I believe that the plastic wool that I have is 3M 000 grade plastic wool. I have used it for smoothing out the finishes on models that I have built. It seemed to work pretty well. Maybe I will use that on a test piece and see what happens. I will let you know.
Dan

[DnCrs13]

I have another quick small question. I have been having issues with my reverse light. I have read over all of the other reverse light threads and realized that the issue is that the wires were disconnected from the switch on the tranny (must have pulled the tranny at some point (duh!)). So I have two red/black wires hanging from the tranny switch and I have two red/black wires hanging at the harness on the drivers side by the master cylinders.

I looked at Tim's '70 yesterday and it appears that both wires come from the tranny switch up to the harness by the masters. Is this correct for the 68 1600 as well. I assumed that one went from the harness to the switch and from the switch to reverse light. I cannot find any other place the wires would go. I did not expect them to both come to and from the same harness, but I can see how that would work as the rear harness connects through that area. The custom color wiring schematic is fairly clear, but not as to where they go exactly.

If anyone happens to be close to a '68 1600 and can check this, I would really appreciate it. Also, if both wires are red/black, would it matter which side of the switch it went in to? I noticed that Datsun has used a male and a female connector on most switches, making it really easy to tell which one goes where, I will have to see if they did the same on this one.

Thanks in advance.
Dan

[EScanlon]

... issues with my reverse light.

..So I have two red/black wires hanging from the tranny switch and I have two red/black wires hanging at the harness on the drivers side by the master cylinders.

..Is this correct for the 68 1600 as well.

..I assumed that one went from the harness to the switch and from the switch to reverse light.

..Also, if both wires are red/black, would it matter which side of the switch it went in to?

Dan

I won't number as I hope it's clear:

Those are the correct colors and locations. AFAIK, that's correct for a 1600, although I checked a 68-2000 and it's also correct for a 67-1600.

One wire does go to the reverse light, the other wire goes to the fuse box.... those are the wires that belong to the harness by the fuse box. The switch side has both wires going to the switch. All the switch does is finish (close) the circuit, as such there is no "correct" wiring direction. If you were to shunt the two wires coming from the body harness your reverse lights would be on continuously.

HTH
E

[dbrick]

All the switch does is finish (close) the circuit, as such there is no "correct" wiring direction. If you were to shunt the two wires coming from the body harness your reverse lights would be on continuously.

HTH
E

That's how I read it too. If no light, check the ground point at the rear.