Time for change...

[Sloloco]

I know many of you are very engine savvy on this sight (TR, Steve) so my question is this…What should I do about my motor? I bought this car from Mike Young and he claims to have “gone through the motor�. The motor has been making a tapping noise ever since I picked it up. Yes, it sounds like a valve (as everyone that hears it points out) but I have adjusted the valves and that did not resolve it. What would a "bore" kit cost? I am trying to figure out if I should pay the money to beef up this 1600 or do a swap (like TR). I want something with power and reliability but don’t want to go overboard (V6, V8,EFI). Any input would be greatly appreciated. p.s. The wiring is going to be all new from scratch so that’s no worries and I am on a "under a grand" budget here.

[Dave]

If you are on an "under a grand" budget you can forget the SR20 swap. Believe me. I'm picking mine up tomorrow and am at close to a grand already...with no engine!!!!

[Minh]

Answer: It is all on you - man. It is a personal and fiduciary.

Most of us will say to keep the original motor going on enthusiast prinicples. Some us will say to swap going a pratical common sense.

Which are you? If your on the fence to the decision gets even harder. It really does. Been there, dwelled on it.

I say do a cost analysis on an engine basis. Then decide if the cost and estimate expections justify the cost.

The R16 is rare but common enough maintain for a long time. Compared to the other Roadster motors.

I would get that fixed since the problem has been identified to be the valves and springs. If the matter of being able to drive becuase you enjoy driving that thing, maybe extend the decision's sunset.

The fix (if done yourself) is not all that difficult and affordable. There is string regarding springs on the forum post somewhere regarding alternate replacement springs.

[spl310]

A tap that sounds like a valve can be an exhaust leak. Another thing to check is the rockers - if they are worn, they may need to be resurfaced - I had some that were really bad on my car - no amount of adjusting would make the noise go away. They had a sort of notch in them where they hammered the valves for years before I got the car (say thank you mr PO...) Just one possible source. You may want to take the fan belt off and run it for a moment as well (not too long as it would overheat) so that you can eliminate the water pump and the alternator from the equation. If you recently bought it from Mike Young, and it had been "gone through" I would take it back to him and ask him what the noise is. He may know right off..

[S Allen]

My three cents-if you are on a budget-stay with the R motor. If Mike said he went through the motor you can trust his word. Ask him what was done to it-he will tell you and then go from there. The pushrod motors are a bit clackety by nature. Pull the valve cover off and look for any obvious broken parts. It would not hurt to do a compression check to see what kind of shape the motor is in. Hopefully the compression is good. You should be able to get a valve job for around $150.00 if you need one. Put a little hotter cam in from American Cam-explain to Joe what you want it to run like----and add a Gary Boone EI dizzy. The 1600 is no slouch and can have you sliding around turns if that is what you want to do. You could easily do the cam, valve job and EI dizzy for under a grand and have money for other stuff. None of the swaps are that cheap and building a stroker can get pricy too. Get the 1600 purring and you will get a lot of miles out of it. They are tough little motors especially the later 5 main variety.

[70MTroadster]

I just gotta weigh in here......my 70 1600 engine has made this tap, tap, tap like a valve sound since I first got it running again after it sat for 12 years. I've been thinking it is the fuel pump actuating rod but may be wrong, dunno. It is more of a slower tapping or clacking sound than the valves would make. I did nothing to the engine but change the oil and filter and then spin up the oil pump with a special tool I made so that the engine would have oil pressure instantly when it started. I have driven the ever-living-snot out of mine and it burns no oil, leaks but just a tiny bit and generally seems as bullet proof as my L series engines I am familiar with from the 510's.

my 2 cents worth

scott

[Sloloco]

These are all valid points you guys make. I don't need big power because I do like corners (especially with my location). This car will be an around town car not something built for distance anyway so maybe I should just stay stock. The exhaust idea is very valid, that thought crossed my mind also. Do we know of any "hook up" for a nice header. Worse case I will do that custom along with the rest of the exhaust. Sloroadster offered a hand in pulling the motor which I will be doing before it hits the body shop so we will find out more then.

[DatsunBucky]

I LOVE 1600s!

If I might be so bold as to offer a suggestion, it would be to either buy an automotive "stethoscope", or use a piece of vacuum line as one, and see if you can identify exactly where the noise is coming from. Exhaust leaks are easier to find this way, as you're not feeling around hot manifolds with your fingers trying to feel exhaust gasses coming out.

If you've not used this method before, you'll hear all sorts of noises when you first start listening. Touch the end of the stethoscope to different parts of the engine, like several places along the length of the valve cove, and several places along the length of the block (like each cylinder) and just listen to what you hear. You'll soon notice differences in the sounds at the different locations. If it's too loud, just move it away from your ear slightly.

That should help you identify where the tapping is coming from. And you can do it when the engine is hot.

Good luck, and enjoy your baby!

[datsun-question]

Lance...Just gotta ask...

Did you purchase the red 67 1600 from Mike?

[Sloloco]

Why yes I did...am I happy? NO! Do you know some history about this car by chance? I am finding more and more problems and have no answers. SLORoadster came by last night and checked it out. Even he was a bit baffled by the big hole in the floor and the bag of rust I saved out of the gas tank. After seeing what cars have gone for on this sight and on eBay I do think i paid too much.

[spl310]

Do you have pictures of the car posted somewhere? Is this the one that had what appeared to be a quickie paint job (all of the wires and such under the hood were painted red as I recall...) that was on Ebay a while back?

[Sloloco]

Yeah Sid that's the one!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 2426647075
I guess Dan up in Napa put it on because Mike doesn't have e-mail or something? There are some hard to find pieces missing and there was fresh paint on the nose. The rear wheel cylinder blew out when he drug it down the hill and most electrical items did not work. Yes, I should have not paid after seeing what I saw but what's done is done. Was it worth $3500? far cry after other's I have seen since. It had it's make-up on for the pictures lets just say that!

[Sloloco]

I do not meen to hurt anyone's feelings here as I know some of you know Mike, I just feel wronged. I will take pictures this week of some of the hidden surprises I found and let you guys see why I feel this way.

[S Allen]

Lance,

I like Mike but you are entitled to voice your feelings and opinions here. If you feel you got screwed over at least let Mike know how you feel and "why". He won't bite your head off. I do not know what he will do but at least let him know about it. And I tend to agree from lsitening to your posts concerning the car that it needs a lot more work than you ever expected especially for the price you paid. These cars if they have been sitting for any amount of time need work but you should have gotten at least a "rust free" runner for your money. Any way-talk to Mike please.

Steve

[Guest]

Thanks Steve I value your input.