I purchased this example via a BaT auction. Based on the auction description I anticipated this being a parts car for Project Penny, but I scored, and even though the engine is in-op, this is NO parts car.
This car is Penny's sister, Peggy. If you've seen the movie Buckaroo Banzai you'll understand. If you haven't, I'm sad for you.
Collecting a list of parts I need...
Trunk gasket
Seat Covers
Carpet
Battery
Windshield Wipers
Door seals
Window/Door top Seals
Windshield (A-pilar) trim (interior)
Windshield (A-pilar) trim (exterior)
Dash
Fuel hoses
Hood gasket?
Window handle covers
Door pulls
Rear deck vinyl
Spare tire
VIN plate
2000 emblems
Antenna gasket/gromet
Reverse light sensor
Projects:
Install new battery
Fix Engine
Replace heater hoses; weeping (ordered)
Fix Tach
Test all electrics
Update suspension components
Door locks inop
Fix Driver's door (doesn’t close right)
Radiator mounted too high (interferes with hood)
Glove box missing back
Shifter rotates (not knob, whole shaft)
E-brake inop
I'd be most appreciative of y'all experts calling out interesting things you see in these photos. Good, bad, ugly... bring it on!
Last edited by tig on Thu Feb 01, 2024 9:22 pm, edited 2 times in total.
If you are going to call it a 2000, which i think it really is, then you will also need a 2000 grill and tach. Check the vendors link at the top of this page, they will have most of what you need. Congratulations on the purchase, well bought!
Mike M
Old enough to know better, too old to remember why!
1969 2000 solex mine since 1972, under resurrection. (Finally resurrected as of spring 2019!)
1969 Porsche 911s -worth more, but not as valuable! Gone!
2017 Lotus Evora 400 - Oh my!!
Don't know what you paid, but it looks like a pretty good starting place for sure... I don't see much rust or any damage, just needs a cleaning and more exploration. New (adapted) rear wheel cylinders looks like. I noted the drive shaft u joints are out of alignment. Rear suspension torque rod is still there (check for cracks). Obviously all the front suspension needs to be evaluated and disassembled for at least new boots! I'd replace the header or look into a new exhaust but even the pretzels are there and look functional. I didn't see any trunk floor cracks from the tank hangers but do check. A set of Bilstein shocks will transform the suspension/ride. Super glad to hear the motor is trying to FIRE! Take your time, make sure it's oiling well, especially if it's never run and been sitting. If you just want it to run you can set up a gravity feed that feeds fuel to the carbs... no need for a fuel pump, and you won't be running suspect fuel through a brand new engine...
Ps... looked up the price... I think you did quite well, especially if the engine runs and is rebuilt. Saw a bit more of the rust... no big deal. Looks like a very solid car
I believe I'm getting fuel pressure. One of the hose clamps for the line into the carb was loose and fuel sprayed out. And I flooded it once. So that's not it.
The choke cables are not connected. I'll connect them today and see if using choke will help.
It's possible the plug wires are incorrect. I labeled them as they were, but i have no confidence whoever worked on this before had them right.
- How do I know which wire goes to which plug?
I will also check valve lash. It could be (even though PO said this thing drove fine before he took it to the shop that did work) the lash was never set properly.
This is only my second carburated car, and I gave up on my other (78 FJ40) and did an Holly Sniper EFI conversion. So I'm kinda clueless on fundmentals.
Huge, huge score, watching on BAT, I assumed the motor was needing a 100% re-build!!!!!
Very nice body and super clean & appears original under hood. (See the factory plastic tipped ends of the firewall insulation/cardboard, remarkable.) Just the typical Colorado chassis surface rust, not pretty but usually structurally fine. (Still, do the suspension bits as Greg noted) Rear (possibly 510 cylinders, as mentioned, have the 3/8 to 10mm adaptors), Rt front outside line-to-flex hose was tweaked or replaced and might just need bent/snugged up to the caliper (like your left side) (or replaced) as it is a bit wide. Reverse light switch wires at tranny need fixed or replaced. The fuel pump is aftermarket and they are press-fit (I think), so maybe can't be rebuilt, but there must be several in your stash from PA. (some of the originals can, some cannot be rebuilt, see http://www.datsunroadster.com, or tech wiki for description).
And, nice garage. Congratulations, thanks for the photos.
68' 2L solex- in progress
68' 2L SU- driver, 69' 2L next
OK. Carbs don't need much fuel pressure vs EFI, so any method to get fuel to the floats will work. The float Chambers have "floats" in them that shut off the fuel when full and allow fuel in when low (like your toilet) so there may be issues there with a sunk float or a needle valve that's stuck. Duel carbs must be "balanced" or adjusted so they flow the same air or the engine will be hard to start and will rock and shake. I'd suggest starting fluid instead of carb cleaner to get it to run. Examine the carb linkage so you understand what does what and do your best to have the throttle plates open equally. Read up a bit on SU carbs... they are very simple but need to be understood to do effective trouble shooting.
Regarding timing... we need to know if it has a smog distributor or a non-smog as the initial timing is considerably different (17 non vs 0 smog). If you don't know, you will need to disassemble the dizzy a little bit to look at the slotted upside down "T" for the correct number stamped on it (check the site for the number... I think it says 17.5 for smog, 7.5 for non? Can't recall...). You can static time the motor by putting it at TDC (far left mark on the crank pully, with both lobes on the cam facing upward on #1... if not, rotate the crank around again and they will). Then remove the distributor cap and the rotator will be aimed at or approaching #1 plug contact (assuming the distributor gears etc were all set up correctly... you may want to post a pic of the distributor showing where the rotator points when at TDC). If it's a non smog dizzy, then set the engine at 17 degrees on the crank (between the far two right hand marks... 0, 5, 10, 15, 20), and 0 if smog. With the cap off, switch on the ignition and rotate the dizzy by hand until the points spark... engine is now close to correct, good enough to start. The firing order is 1,3,4,2 and rotates counter clockwise so set your plug wires accordingly.
I think this will get you much closer to success. You are going to need to purchase a carb balancing tool before long and I highly recommend "the snail" vs a unisyn... much easier to use and carb balance is absolutely required for good running. Obviously if you're not getting spark or fuel we need to troubleshoot that first but it sounds like it's close. You can buy a cheap electric fuel pump with 3-6 lbs pressure and use that as a temporary pump while you get it running and just have it draw off a gas can if desired. If you end up going electric permanently be sure to mount it as a pusher, not a puller (close to the fuel tank, not the engine bay... I mounted mine near the rear wheel, just cut into the line).
Hope this Helps! I don't know your level of car knowledge so forgive me if it's too simple or I'm referencing something you don't know...
