Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Have a look at my Valance. It is the only significant body work I need to tackle. I have no experience but willing to learn,(thank you YouTube)
What are the required tools pre-bondo, Hammers/ Dollys? A lot of sales this Memorial weekend so I thought I might pick up what I would need.

Like this set.

https://www.amazon.com/HORUSDY-Piece-Re ... B1FX&psc=1

Can the straightening be performed on the car?

Thanks for the feedback

The photo will rotate after clicking on it.

I'm a novice body guy
per personal experience. I've watched many things done though
But That likely has considerably stretched the piece, so a shrinking hammer would help with a bucking bar behind , it's a tougher body operation to get like new also wide sheetmetal visegrips may be the 1st bend
It's likely you have to use the pick hammer to dent it back then putty it flush to take out the stretch created

Doesn't look too bad to me. I would try bracing the ends and gently pulling on the centre section to bring it back straight.
Hammer and dolly work may be required but us it sparingly so that the metal doesn't get stretched out of shape.
You won't know how clever you may be if you don't have a go

I think you will surprise yourself. It's not bad at all... hammer and dolly kit (what you posted, or go to Harbor Freight), maybe some heat to shrink it (no experience with that but seen it done, propane torch). It's not an obvious panel regardless... it will come out fine with a little light, high quality filler once you get the metal as straight as you can. It's worth it to buy quality filler... they mix, spread and sand better. Talk to the folks at an auto body supply house. I do suspect some rust in your passenger fender next to the hood and head light based on the filler there and some color I see, but hard to tell from a pic. If that's the "only body work" or issues you find that's pretty remarkable... but I'd look closely inside fenders and rear quarters. A good rust converter that seals and does not have to be painted over would be highly advised. I used Sems Rust Seal 37 years ago and it never came back, but don't know what is available today but I'm sure there's good stuff. The body will need body work to be straight... every car does. Are you going to do that work or have it done? You can do it, especially if the car is pretty good now, you can do a lot of your own work if desired. A good ol flat blade sanding board will be your friend.
I'd leave paint to an expert, especially with the new paints of today... I've no experience with any of those.
Hope this helps!

I had a similar problem, but mine was worse than yours. I too am a novice. I used a piece of cardboard to make a template of the desired curve. Then cut some MDF to match the curve and then C-clamped it on the front and back, hammering both sides as I tightened the clamps. This got me very close to the correct shape. Then I used a hammer and dolly (like the kit you show) to get the finer dents and mis-shapes out. Mine is not perfect. With primer, you do not notice it, but with shiny paint, I fear it may show, but barely. Hopefully, the bumper will cover it so that the minor imperfections will be hidden. You have nothing to lose by trying!

Im no expert, so the only advice I could give is to slowly work the entire area in the reverse direction that caused the damage. One mistake that happens frequently is the lack of patience that leads to one big yank.
Jack the front of car up till the tailpipe touches the ground so you have good access and better leverage.
Wood 2x2 and 2x4 is your friend, (less stretch).
I wouldn't buy any tools for that.
Long ago I learned not to shade poor bodywork with trim…

Pebbles!! Haven’t seen a post from you in several years, welcome back!

https://m.youtube.com/shorts/4Drmlhf3i9Y
This repair has similarities ....might help