ignition switch issues

[Solex68]

On the 68 you will want to separate the mechanical part from the electrical and confirm which type you have. Kanto Seiki or WASO type as the electrical part should match the mechanical part.
** The T or other inside shaped hole does not distinguish if it is WASO or Kanto Seiki **
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image.png

[johnscf]

On the 68 you will want to separate the mechanical part from the electrical and confirm which type you have. Kanto Seiki or WASO type as the electrical part should match the mechanical part.
Kanto Seiki is on the left and WASO on the right, I believe.
.
image.png

Thanks. I have one like the one on the right. Most of the ones I see listed for sale look like the one on the left with two small prongs (I assume for mounting) The prongs would be at 1 and 7 o’clock in your picture. Apologies in advance if this is a stupid questions and something everybody knows but what do the R A IG S B etc refer to in the description of the various electric portions of the switch?

[DAC21]

On the 68 you will want to separate the mechanical part from the electrical and confirm which type you have. Kanto Seiki or WASO type as the electrical part should match the mechanical part.
Kanto Seiki is on the left and WASO on the right, I believe.
.
image.png

Thanks. I have one like the one on the right. Most of the ones I see listed for sale look like the one on the left with two small prongs (I assume for mounting) The prongs would be at 1 and 7 o’clock in your picture. Apologies in advance if this is a stupid questions and something everybody knows but what do the R A IG S B etc refer to in the description of the various electric portions of the switch?

B = Battery

S = Starter

A = Accessory

IG = Ignition

R = Relay

[johnscf]

On the 68 you will want to separate the mechanical part from the electrical and confirm which type you have. Kanto Seiki or WASO type as the electrical part should match the mechanical part.
Kanto Seiki is on the left and WASO on the right, I believe.
.
image.png

Thanks. I have one like the one on the right. Most of the ones I see listed for sale look like the one on the left with two small prongs (I assume for mounting) The prongs would be at 1 and 7 o’clock in your picture. Apologies in advance if this is a stupid questions and something everybody knows but what do the R A IG S B etc refer to in the description of the various electric portions of the switch?

B = Battery

S = Starter

A = Accessory

IG = Ignition

R = Relay

Thanks for the info. The one I am trying to replace is like this

[unklpat]

I had similar issues on my 68, had purchased other switches. A local locksmith explained that over years and with moisture added, corrosion occurred. A $10 can of Corrosionx, along with removing the electrical portion from the locking part, solved my problem. It is important to saturate the internals and operate the switch in other than stock orientations. The hardest part was the tiny little bolts holding the 2 housings together. Plan on lowering your column a bit to get to the upper bolt. Next up is my headlight and then wiper. Pat

[Solex68]

If you can't find one elsewhere, I have a new one I sell sell for $75 which includes shipping, but others may have one as well.

[johnscf]

If you can't find one elsewhere, I have a new one I sell sell for $75 which includes shipping, but others may have one as well.

PM sent

[unklpat]

CorrosionX, $10.00. I spent 10 times more than that before ending up with my original switch. Pat

[unklpat]

I spent a bunch of money chasing this problem, only to end up with my original clean switch. CorrosionX for the win. Pat

[johnscf]

I had similar issues on my 68, had purchased other switches. A local locksmith explained that over years and with moisture added, corrosion occurred. A $10 can of Corrosionx, along with removing the electrical portion from the locking part, solved my problem. It is important to saturate the internals and operate the switch in other than stock orientations. The hardest part was the tiny little bolts holding the 2 housings together. Plan on lowering your column a bit to get to the upper bolt. Next up is my headlight and then wiper. Pat

Mine doesn’t have any bolts holding the 2 pieces together. The electrical and the mechanical (key part) pieces fit together and have a plastic ring that snaps over the back of the electrical piece to hold it in place

[unklpat]

that doesn't sound correct for a 68, but regardless, all you have to do is work the electrical portion of the switch with the cleaner in it. usually there are 3 6mm bolts connecting the locking portion to the electrical portion. I think you might be surprised. Pat

[Solex68]

[/quote]
Mine doesn’t have any bolts holding the 2 pieces together. The electrical and the mechanical (key part) pieces fit together and have a plastic ring that snaps over the back of the electrical piece to hold it in place
[/quote]

Mine is the same...

[unklpat]

I've worked on 3 other ones. I think what we are missing here is that the problem is corrosion. That can be solved. You can go buy new switches, or clean the ones you have. I spent several trips to a locksmith, several used switches, and then solved my problem. I would say most of the switches in our cars suffer from corrosion. Should we replace them all, or spend a few dollars cleaning them? Pat

[johnscf]

I've worked on 3 other ones. I think what we are missing here is that the problem is corrosion. That can be solved. You can go buy new switches, or clean the ones you have. I spent several trips to a locksmith, several used switches, and then solved my problem. I would say most of the switches in our cars suffer from corrosion. Should we replace them all, or spend a few dollars cleaning them? Pat

I’m certainly going to try cleaning but it will be nice to have a spare as a back up just in case.