Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

david premo wrote: ↑Sat Jun 03, 2023 7:30 pm So the test is based on travel distance without getting coil bind, if the “wire” ie spring coil diameter is the same and the length of the 2 springs are the same, more turn equals a softer spring as it splits the work over more coils making it softer.

I'll take your word for it Dave since I have 0.5% of the knowledge of these cars that you possess.

David rebuilds transmissions some I'd go with what he said.
I'm surprised no one has reproduced the springs. Seems easy enough and could be an easy modification with a variety of spring rates for different feels.
Wouldn't the part #81 or #82 wear down a bit after 50 years? Seems like an opportunity for someone to reproduce these.

The '68 hard top will fit a '70, right?

Yes.

iloveredmeat wrote: ↑Sat Jun 03, 2023 5:45 pm
Well, Jeff, with my extensive experience of rebuilding Roadster transmissions (all one of them), I'm pretty much an authority.

In all seriousness, I do remember Andy mentioning the stronger spring to avoid mis-shifting into Reverse.

Florida Roadster wrote: ↑Sat Jun 03, 2023 3:10 pm it appears the previous owner/racer may have switched them to make it HARDER to go into the lower gears

They are obviously very similar, so could it be that the previous owner just mixed them up by accident???

Good luck!
pm

Hi Jeff, sorry, I thought it was settled law that there are indeed two different springs...

So, I found this paragraph from Dean's Repair & Service Manual that explains it very well.

"The control arm for the 5-speed is different from the 4-speed in that it has two "outriggers" that extend out from each side. The tips of the outriggers sit on steel pins that mount vertically in the rear of the tailshaft housing. The pins are spring-loaded from the bottom to keep the control arm centered in the 3rd/4th shifting gate. The springs are secured by two large plug bolts and copper sealing washers. The springs are two different tensions: the strongest tension being on the 5th/reverse gate which helps prevent shift bloopers into 5th or reverse. It takes a hard pull to the left to engage the 1st/2nd shifting gate. The 3rd/4th gate just happens automatically since the spring loading forces the lever to this center gate. It takes a harder push to engage the 5th/reverse gate for the reason we just mentioned; a stronger spring."

Which spring is stronger? I've actually known this from my brother and his suspension business... but Dave Premo's description of which spring is stronger and why, is spot on.

I hope that answers everything.

Good luck,
Peter

To Dave's point here, previous discussion and the stock springs from an FSC71A with the correct orientation as mounted in the car (softer spring on the left, harder on the right). Both springs are shown identical in length, but the one on the left obviously has more coils:

viewtopic.php?p=333186&hilit=fs5c71a+jon#p333186f

Jon

jhayden wrote: ↑Sun Jun 04, 2023 4:05 pm To Dave's point here, previous discussion and the stock springs from an FSC71A with the correct orientation as mounted in the car (softer spring on the left, harder on the right). Both springs are shown identical in length, but the one on the left obviously has more coils:

viewtopic.php?p=333186&hilit=fs5c71a+jon#p333186f

Jon

Thanks Jon.

Heard a rumour a Honda part might work for a late model (69 &70) steering box u-joint. Does anyone have a part number?

Steve Heimsoth(heimsoth) found a great replacement part for the Recirculating Ball (RB) steering shaft.

The recirculating ball u-joint is the same as a Kawasaki ATV driveshaft u-joint. The part number is 49050-1055. The genuine Kawasaki one is $35-$50 but an aftermarket one is $14.99 here www.mfgsupply.com/m/c/K158759.html

Mike (23yrRebuild)

added:
FWIW, this site has the following dimensions: www.atvworks.com/products.asp?cat=29&pg=2

XUJ300 Aftermarket U-Joint Replaces KAW 49050-1055

Universal Joint for Kawasaki 4X4 front drive shaft. Includes clips. Fits: KLF 300 Bayou 4X4 89-04 Mule KAF620 2510 4X4 A1-A5 Crosses to Kawasaki Part# 49050-1055

Dimensions: Cap - 16mm. Width cap to cap - 40mm.

Super…thanks!

Can anyone identify this alternator for me?
Just need make and model

Continuing to dig into my 68 2000. Pulled the right front wheel just to check things out, since other car guys questioned why the front tires appear to protrude too far. Some thought there was probably a spacer. The wheels are 14” 260Z wheels with 195/65’s. Here’s what I found. All looks stock to me, what do you think? I’m considering 15” Panasports for replacement.

Ralph wrote: ↑Sat Jun 17, 2023 6:35 pm Can anyone identify this alternator for me?
Just need make and model70873461351__192E80AD-1E63-4489-8EC1-339A4ED21B5A.jpeg70873459454__365A72C0-0FCE-47C7-B283-4CCB9766E5AF.jpeg

The alternator resembles one of the models I know as the Justy series, which includes several variations that share a similar appearance. When purchasing an alternator, make sure it shows photos to ensure that the power plugs are positioned correctly and that the plug type matches your current setup.
I recommended looking for alternators specifically designed for a 1988-1992 Daihatsu Charade, as they are look like this. Although these alternators are available under different brands, focusing on those intended for the mentioned Charade model will help you find the appropriate match.
I hope that helps.

Got it … thanks Greg

Frank69 wrote: ↑Mon Jun 19, 2023 7:38 pm Continuing to dig into my 68 2000. Pulled the right front wheel just to check things out, since other car guys questioned why the front tires appear to protrude too far. Some thought there was probably a spacer. The wheels are 14” 260Z wheels with 195/65’s. Here’s what I found. All looks stock to me, what do you think? I’m considering 15” Panasports for replacement.

I ran those same wheels for years with 195/60/14 and think I actually used a spacer to clear my modified brakes. Car has comp springs. I don't recall the wheels being out too far (my avatar still shows them), but I don't see any issues in your pics suggesting problems or changes made. What is critical is making sure you're using lug nuts with the proper pitch, as they are different from a Roadster to a Z and will appear to tightening but are actually wrong. They are a shouldered lug nut, and I used extra thick "craigar" washers that filled the shoulder space in the wheel lug hole. Please check yours since the car is new to you... you never know, and I've seen the lug nuts fly off followed by a rear wheel on a car using the "Iron cross" version with the same lug nuts. Thankfully nobody was injured... was a miracle. Check the pitch on your wheel stud and that of your lug nuts... may be worth taking to a shop if you're not sure. Be safe my friend!