The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread-take 3

[garcia_vm]

I'm hoping someone can help me identity this wire and where it may go. Looks like the plastic connector has broken off something, but what? Where the wire comes from there’s another wire that goes to what I think is the oil pressure? Let me know what you think.

[garcia_vm]

I also have another question. I need to replace my low windshield. I found parts car that looks to be a 65, would a 65 windshield fit my 66?

[Habitat.pat]

Without knowing the color on the wire I can’t say for sure, but the plastic piece looks like the connection that drops into a square slot on the side of the distributor that connects to the points. The other end of the wire should go to the - terminal on the ignition coil.

Windshield is the same on all early cars.

Peace,
Pat

[Solex68]

Take off the distributor cap and you will see where it slides into the dizzy's body.

[Ralph]

Does anyone have a bulb/part number that's plug & play to switch to LED dash lights for instruments in a '68?

[spl310]

The BA9S bulbs work. I just put them in my 67.5

[DAC21]

Does anyone have a bulb/part number that's plug & play to switch to LED dash lights for instruments in a '68?

You MIGHT need to change out your Dimmer Rheostat Switch. The Original MAY not play nice with LED's. I have read a few say the original worked OK with LED's. Change the bulbs and see how your Rheostat does.

[spl310]

Changing to LEDs roasted my rheostat. To be fair, it may have been on it's last leg anyway. I put another one in, but it doesn't really work much. I may get an aftermarket one.

[DAC21]

Changing to LEDs roasted my rheostat. To be fair, it may have been on it's last leg anyway. I put another one in, but it doesn't really work much. I may get an aftermarket one.

This is the one that Curtis bought for his early 1600's to get everything to play nice. He said he was able to use the OEM dimmer knob with some effort.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C4 ... UTF8&psc=1

[Ralph]

Excellent….thanks for the tips

[Florida Roadster]

A few quick questions, any help would be appreciated.

1) I marked the gear selector nuts/plugs with a "D" for the driver's side and "P" for the passenger side when disassembling the gearbox. The selector springs I have are wound differently and are different tensions. I found an old thread where the forum member stated the following.

"The two springs in this picture (#85) center the shift mechanism. The spring on the right is the one I replaced with a stiffer one to make it harder to hit 5th and reverse without some extra effort."

My 5-speed transmission was previously in a 510 race car. This is the orientation in the picture below of how they were positioned. I understand the logic above, but it appears the previous owner/racer may have switched them to make it HARDER to go into the lower gears so as not to grenade the box on hard downshifts??? On a stock gearbox are they usually the same tension on both sides? I have an extra set that also has two different tensions so I could replace both springs with either the hard or soft tension. Thoughts?

IMG-4352.jpg

26351612123_c59ec96f29_z.jpg

2) I need to purchase gearbox bolts for assembling the front, middle, and tail sections. The rear are Nissan Part # 81-20850-1 (M8-1.25 x ?) and the front are Nissan Part # 81-20832-1 (M8-1.25 x ?). I'm trying to determine the correct length of the bolts and I will order them from McMaster. I have estimated the rear at 60mm/partially threaded and the front at 34mm/fully threaded to include lock washers. Is this close or correct?

Thanks!!!

[iloveredmeat]

A few quick questions, any help would be appreciated.

1) I marked the gear selector nuts/plugs with a "D" for the driver's side and "P" for the passenger side when disassembling the gearbox. The selector springs I have are wound differently and are different tensions. I found an old thread where the forum member stated the following.

"The two springs in this picture (#85) center the shift mechanism. The spring on the right is the one I replaced with a stiffer one to make it harder to hit 5th and reverse without some extra effort."

My 5-speed transmission was previously in a 510 race car. This is the orientation in the picture below of how they were positioned. I understand the logic above, but it appears the previous owner/racer may have switched them to make it HARDER to go into the lower gears so as not to grenade the box on hard downshifts??? On a stock gearbox are they usually the same tension on both sides? I have an extra set that also has two different tensions so I could replace both springs with either the hard or soft tension. Thoughts?

IMG-4352.jpg26351612123_c59ec96f29_z.jpg

2) I need to purchase gearbox bolts for assembling the front, middle, and tail sections. The rear are Nissan Part # 81-20850-1 (M8-1.25 x ?) and the front are Nissan Part # 81-20832-1 (M8-1.25 x ?). I'm trying to determine the correct length of the bolts and I will order them from McMaster. I have estimated the rear at 60mm/partially threaded and the front at 34mm/fully threaded to include lock washers. Is this close or correct?

Thanks!!!

Well, Jeff, with my extensive experience of rebuilding Roadster transmissions (all one of them), I'm pretty much an authority.

In all seriousness, I do remember Andy mentioning the stronger spring to avoid mis-shifting into Reverse.

it appears the previous owner/racer may have switched them to make it HARDER to go into the lower gears

They are obviously very similar, so could it be that the previous owner just mixed them up by accident???

Good luck!
pm

[david premo]

Well this will mess with your mind, but the spring with more coils and the same size “wire” is the softer spring.
Dave

[Florida Roadster]

Well this will mess with your mind, but the spring with more coils and the same size “wire” is the softer spring.
Dave

Hmmmmmmmmmm, not so sure about that Dave. Both springs are very stiff, hard to manually compress with your bare hands. I put each one in the jaws of a large pair of channel locks and they do feel about the same tension. The only difference being that the spring with more (tighter) coils fully compresses and "bottoms out" much sooner and has a shorter length of travel than the other spring with less or "looser" appearing coils. ?????? When I reassemble the tail section I'll experiment with each of the different springs and see if I can feel a difference at the lever. Jeff

[david premo]

So the test is based on travel distance without getting coil bind, if the “wire” ie spring coil diameter is the same and the length of the 2 springs are the same, more turn equals a softer spring as it splits the work over more coils making it softer.