Interior Install Tips and Tricks Please

[Curtis]

I will be installing the interior on my freshly painted car.

Firewall board. Not much to say here, have someone hold it up against the firewall, go out front and put pin pricks through the screw holes so you know where they go.

First question is about the foot well side wall kick panels. I did not have any as it had carpet glued to the side. The new panels come with holes for two clips. The side wall looks like there is a third hole for a clip just above and forward of the large hole. Anyone have an original panel to confirm or deny this?

Edit: Or is the small hole by the door for a countersink and screw?

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[Pjackb]

Following as I’ll be doing the same very soon
I’ll take a picture this morning of the panels I removed and my sidewalls for comparison

Are you installing any sound proofing?
I Also was told things go in this order
1. Glued on vinyl trim
2. Carpet
3. Panel kit

[C.Costine]

In order to make my kick panels fit I had to pull the staples along the bottom, peel the vinyl back, and cut 3/8 of an inch off the bottom of the board. For sound proofing I used Dynamat on the firewall and rear wall and shelf, and ice and water shield on the floor surfaces and kick panels. The carpet can go on after the "glued-on" vinyl. Be sure to remove the carpet felt backing over the hump. The moveable carpet needs to be out of the way when putting on the kick panels as well as the side pieces to the rear of the doors. I glued the "flap" of vinyl that is part of the rear shelf cover to the foam in three steps, in order to have it fit snugly like the original.

[Pjackb]

First question is about the foot well side wall kick panels. I did not have any as it had carpet glued to the side. The new panels come with holes for two clips. The side wall looks like there is a third hole for a clip just above and forward of the large hole. Anyone have an original panel to confirm or deny this?

Here you go
there are 3 holes/clips on the original panels that goes into the 3 corresponding holes on the side wall

[Curtis]

Thanks, that's what I thought. Now to try and locate and put in the hole without damaging it.

I will be putting in some minimal sound proofing. Mostly for vibration dampening. I mean, it's a a roadster that you drive with the top down most of the time. I'm using the brand that has the black foil covering.

[Pjackb]

Thanks, that's what I thought. Now to try and locate and put in the hole without damaging it.

I will be putting in some minimal sound proofing. Mostly for vibration dampening. I mean, it's a a roadster that you drive with the top down most of the time. I'm using the brand that has the black foil covering.

My 67 car has the full Dynamat treatment the difference is drastic, it feels so much more solid and closing doors rewards you with a solid thunk it feels much more solid

[spl310]

How much weight did the dynamat add?

[Pjackb]

How much weight did the dynamat add?

The weight argument against soundproofing that’s prevalent on the web is one of the stupidest myth IMHO

Dynamat extreme and equivalent from competitors is 0.45lbs per sq/ft calculate that you need about 50-60 SQ/FT to completely do a roadster including doors , firewall , rear deck etc
That’s less than 30lbs

[Curtis]

I haven't decided on the doors as yet. Not sure if I'll go up the firewall with it.

[spl310]

I wasn't trying to start any kind of argument Pjackb. I was just curious.

[Curtis]

I put in the firewall board. Used stainless countersinks and screws that I sourced. I didn't care for the new piece that goes on the driver's side. They cut it way down. Not sure if that is how the later cars are done or the were making it easier to install or cheapening out. So a while back I had some board I got from an upholstery shop and copied the old one.

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[Pjackb]

I wasn't trying to start any kind of argument Pjackb. I was just curious.

No worries Sid I know you weren’t arguing

It’s just that I’m seeing things posted all the time of ill informed people saying no to do Dynamat because of the weight penalty which is usually less than 50 pounds which doesn’t really makes a difference on cars dedicated for the street

The funniest things is it’s often the same people who are running huge 19-20” wheels and tires on sports cars adding 10-15lbs of unsprung weight per corner

[Curtis]

Time for the vinyl trim around the door. A search on here led me to a post with photos that are no longer available. And there is nothing in the wiki.

What I need is photos of the original vinyl without the panels installed. It would be nice if we could add a section to the wiki of how these are installed. A comparison of old and new would be good too.

Even photos of old intact pieces would be good too.

[todd lorber]

Curtis, I'll try to shoot a pic when I am next up at the shop. If the vinyl is not on the car I will stick it on temporarily.
Pjack, were you going to coat the raw floor boards prior to installing the Dynamat? I don't think I'd rely on the soundproofing for rust protection.

I find the concerns about weight amusing as well. Most of us could probably drop a few lbs, and then install the soundproofing.

[Curtis]

Curtis, I'll try to shoot a pic when I am next up at the shop. If the vinyl is not on the car I will stick it on temporarily.
Pjack, were you going to coat the raw floor boards prior to installing the Dynamat? I don't think I'd rely on the soundproofing for rust protection.

I find the concerns about weight amusing as well. Most of us could probably drop a few lbs, and then install the soundproofing.

Vinyl on the 68-70 must be almost identical. Looking at the kits for low and high the door trim pieces look the same. I saw in a post that the vertical pieces lap over the horizontal piece.