K24A2 swap into 66

[Slackline]

And so it begins....

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[Slackline]

Replacement motor will be the Honda K24A2 if it fits. It comes stock with approx 200 bhp. I will probably replace the intake with the kpower intake for RWD cars and a tune should get me a little more power. Kpower adapter plate and flywheel are on the way.

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Lots to clean up. The PO had a lot of patchwork in the wiring. There were multiple connectors inline on the same wire, splices, splitters, etc.

I am using the early Miata 6 speed and an RX-7 rear end.

I just purchased the East Coast Distributor for the 1600. I probably put about 200 miles on it. It will be in the classifieds at some point along with the rest of the parts that I swap.

Is that the voltage regulator that is on the passenger side inner fender that the alternator plugs into? Lots of wires in that box. I hope I can get rid of it.


Rob

[Alvin]

Sweet!
Subscribed.

[damarble]

Ooooh very exciting. Who makes the Miata trans adapter? What harness/engine management are you using?

[Slackline]

https://kpower.industries/collections/kmiata-swap-parts
I bought a RSX ecu, loom and ignition/keys. I was going to use Hondata and keep the immobilizer in the ignition. I might be changing that, so I am not sure about which way I am going on the wiring/ecu.

[damarble]

https://kpower.industries/collections/kmiata-swap-parts
I bought a RSX ecu, loom and ignition/keys. I was going to use Hondata and keep the immobilizer in the ignition. I might be changing that, so I am not sure about which way I am going on the wiring/ecu.

Nice. I'll be tracking this. My top 3 repower wish list right now, depending on fitment and cost, is 2.3EB > SR20DET > NC Miata MZR, but the K24 could be a real dark horse.

[Pjackb]

Looking forward to see how you problem solve this one that’s a huge tall engine to fit and with the exhaust on the wrong side

A few questions
Why the 6 speed? Most of the Miata guys favour the 5sp and its smaller which is better for a 66
Are you planning to take the body off?
What are your plans for gauges ?

[Slackline]

Well, I spoke to the guy that built the one with the S2000 motor. He got it to fit and this motor should be within 1/2". If needed, Kpower sells a valve cover that they modified for hood clearance on the Miata which may help. I am not 100% certain that this motor will fit. I won't know until I get there. Of all the measurements I could find online, this one seemed close. It has 200hp stock and with the intake and tune I should be able to get close to 200 whp. No cam changes, no 50 degree timing gear, etc.

The early 6 speed has a narrow tail. This has been installed by someone already. The 6 speed Miata had a 3.9 rear end, which no longer matters since I am getting a new rear end anyway. But the new one comes with a 3.9 also.

I am probably going to update all of the gauges. Not sure which ones yet. I know I can send my tach to have it changed to electronic guts also. I have not decided on this one yet.

Exhaust on the wrong side: Some people cross over under the bellhousing. I don't really like that as it is quite a tight fit and I am trying to avoid making my ground clearance any worse that it may already get. I can get it through the passenger side x member by cutting holes like the drivers side has. I don't think I will have interference with the e-brake mechanism. I will have a problem getting by the gas tank on the passenger side. I may have to cross over in front of the fuel tank and wrap the exhaust.

Exhaust/header. If I have too much trouble, the k24z has a "collector" built into the head and has an exhaust port where you can come down with a single 3" pipe. You can elongate the pipe for clearance if need be and then continue back with your exhaust pipe. It has a little less HP, but is an excellent candidate for turbocharging.

I am trying not to take the body off, but I will if I have to. If I take the body off, it is going to cause me to drift into body work and possibly a full chassis rewire. I would like to stay on task as much as possible. I am already finding so much stuff I would like to fix. Example: PO had 3 nut/bolts of one size on the driveshaft and one of another. Mismatched and missing fasteners everywhere. I can't even figure out how to take the center console out. There are 4 holes in the bottom but I can't seem to find what drive they are and I can't see in them due to the vinyl covering he used. The bolts used for the roll bar are too long and they contact with something that I believe is the rear shock mount bar/brace. I can't remember. I was trying to stay focused on the task at hand.

As I work on it, I'll keep pics coming and probably have many more questions.

[Slackline]

Nice. I'll be tracking this. My top 3 repower wish list right now, depending on fitment and cost, is 2.3EB > SR20DET > NC Miata MZR, but the K24 could be a real dark horse.

That GM ecotec 2.5 LCV had my interest, but it is too tall. It had factory 200hp, and supposedly the bottom end was built to handle 500 with no mods. The smaller ecotecs seem doable. Most of the new ones seem to be turbocharged. Ford even calls them Ecoboost.

[damarble]

Nice. I'll be tracking this. My top 3 repower wish list right now, depending on fitment and cost, is 2.3EB > SR20DET > NC Miata MZR, but the K24 could be a real dark horse.

That GM ecotec 2.5 LCV had my interest, but it is too tall. It had factory 200hp, and supposedly the bottom end was built to handle 500 with no mods. The smaller ecotecs seem doable. Most of the new ones seem to be turbocharged. Ford even calls them Ecoboost.

I far and away prefer the 2.3EB over any other option, 310hp and turnkey with the control pack. It's also very big though.

[Slackline]

2.3EB - Oh, that is the RS motor.
My son has the Focus ST. 250hp.

I was trying to stay NA.

I was also trying to keep with a common engine. Going from my 1600 to a U20 would be changing to an engine with rare parts. The S2000 motor, same problem. SR20, getting a bit more rare now. K24 was built in great numbers across many models of car.

It is very cool to have an uncommon car/engine. But I have felt the pain of limited production cars in the past and am trying not to repeat it. (Grand National, Pontiac GTX, Impala SS)

If you can get the 2.3 to fit, then that would be an awesome powerplant!

[damarble]

I'll stop jacking your post after this lol!

I'm looking at 2015+ Mustangs as my 2.3 donor, and NC Miatas for a transmission, both very plentiful. Initial measurements are tight but encouraging. A 2" bulged hood may be needed. These guys offer an engine that runs on the pallet. 5k is a lot to swallow up front but in the long run probably cheaper and easier than piecing it all together. https://lsswap.parts/product/mustang-2- ... -swap-kit/

But I'm not buying anything for a while, so in the meantime I can't wait to see how the Honda works out.

[Slackline]

The motor I got is a JDM. In order to put USDM accessories on it (for fitment), I had to remove and replace the water pump housing. The studs are a different size for the US version. I broke a stud off in the aluminum block trying to remove it. Penetrant, heat, hammer, still seized. I got it to move a quarter turn and tried going back and forth then removing further. Spent most of my evening trying to get it out. Going to pick up a new extractor today and give it a go. Or, drill, tap, threadsert.

[GoldHawg]

If you have a friend with a mig welder that's your ticket; stick a nut on the outside and burn thru the middle to the stud. The heat will help release and the dissimilar metals will not have the weld stick to your block. If you go this route, clean thoroughly since you've tried some penetrants. Acetone best if you have. Good luck!

[Slackline]

Thanks for the tip. Unfortunately the stud broke off inside the block. The weld bridge would have been 3/16 or more. But that is an excellent idea.

After drilling and using the new extractor, it was really biting in, but that stud was stuck. I was turning it pretty hard. The extractor was flexing and I couldn't really turn it any harder, so I stopped. I didn't need more stuff broken off in that hole.
Ended up drilling and tapping. Problem solved. On to the next adventure.