1964 1500 - Good from far, far from good?

[RoadZog]

I've got the roadster bug pretty bad, and I've narrowed my search to the 1500 as I'm really digging the unique 3-seat configuration, though I would love any feedback folks could provide on what they're like to live with vs the later, more powerful models. While I still have much to learn, I've come across one that I'm thinking of going to see in person. It looks to be in reasonable shape, though the pictures leave much to be desired to rule out any potential road rot, and the only protection from the elements is a tonneau cover. But it appears mostly original and unmolested, the chrome appears to be good shape, and all around reasonably complete. But it's been sitting for at least six months... the asking price seems a little on the high side, but in the ballpark given the condition and the current state of the market. For an honest driver, it seems pretty decent, and I'm thinking of making an offer.

Can you all give me some tips on what to look for when I go kick the tires, particularly any costly issues in the engine compartment to look out for?

https://countryclassiccars.com/1964-dat ... in%2011905

Thanks

Matt

[ted heaton]

Matt,
Go see the roadster and take/post about 100 pictures at a decent resolution
so we 1500 owners can help you evaluate it.
You can not really see any detail with the tiny pictures
We that have the 3 seat 1500's love them
But I am not impressed with this one for $15K
No top/frame, Upholstery is not right. Newer radio. Bright red paint might be covering some serious bondo/rust.
This is from a dealer so you can excuse the rocks on the vin tag shelf and the horn button up side down.
The vin tag needs some research. CAR NO shows it as a 63 #668. which is outside the range documented by Rallye for 63.
Model for year stamped as a 64 and the engine room shows 64 equipment.
Be sure to find and photograph the Car NO on the frame (below the washer bottle).
BIG potential for serious rust on the 1500s. Check all the usual roadster rust areas.

Ted

[spl310]

Pictures are too small for detail.

[Fetch]

Matt,
There are not many 310's left, finding an unmolested one would be rare.
A few things I picked up from the pictures.

Is it converted to negative ground for the radio? Should be positive ground.
Interior actually looks good, I like the cloth. But not original.
No breather tube from the oil filler cap to the carbs. Check to see if there is a tube down on the block under the carbs by the starter.
As stated take a magnet and check for bondo.
The price is way over the top and an obstacle to your purchase.
On any car work will need to be done, you just need to set a path. Try to bring back to original or modify it?
311's.org has a tremendous amount of information to help.
My 2 cents worth.
Dan
'64 SPL310

Matt,
I claim brain fade due the virus. The odo is correct, I have been staring at mine too long, need to get my car running.

[RoadZog]

Thank you folks! This is great feedback. I'll let you know how it goes.

[RoadZog]

Well, went to see this little beast, and after a five hour drive we were told that the carburetor float had a hole and the car wasn't running. Great. Apparently the owner had tried to use some silicone on the float to fix the holes long enough to get it to the dealer. Not a great start. What other horrors would we find?

Cassidy at CCC worked hard and did get the carb working well enough for us to take the car around their lot several times, and actually the engine seemed to run pretty well. Very little blue/grey smoke on startup, and ran pretty smooth. The transmission shifted, no issues getting in or out of gear or shudder takeup. The front end felt pretty vague, and pulled pretty hard to the right, with moderate slack in the steering. When we crawled underneath it was clear the suspension has been neglected - dried out rock hard bushings but still decent shock response. No funny noises from the rear end at about 35 mph (top speed for the parking lot). There was some oil leaking from the main seal, but no other signs of major fluid loss. The muffler had some small holes and was clearly going to need attention, but still drivable.

Coolant was checked, full, not discolored. Engine bay around master cylinder showed some wear - pictures included. All lights and signals worked. Wiring was not too bad, some sketchy looking splices.

The paint is definitely more orange in person, not high quality, but not bad from 20 ft. It was at least the second respray, with two coats of red visible around a few tinneau cover fasteners. A magnet indicated pretty extensive bondo all around, and this god awful roofing material sprayed all inside the wheel wells that are obviously covering some serious road rot. The rockers seemed pretty solid, but still some bondo apparent.

We also matched the car # stamped on the frame with the vin tag. The engine #, however, did not match. The number was hard to make out, but clear enough to see it wasn't original. Any tips on identifying the donor would be appreciated. As was noted, the vin # falls outside the range documented by Rallye, so still have some sleuthing to do there. Could it have come with the single barrel carb engine originally? Is it still a 1.5 liter?

Here's a link to my photos - sorry for my camera work. I still have much to learn about these great little cars.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Qehc5t9u1xYa1Q8N8

I left without making an offer, largely because of the roofing tar rust repairs, but I havent ruled throwing out a lowball offer and just driving it til the wheels fall off. The engine and transmission seem to havr a lot of life left in them. I'm thinking maybe $11k max?

[bakerjf]

I think $11k is too generous by about three or four grand. I’m guessing they thought after a five hour drive you were probably going to buy it regardless of the carburetor issue. That would be enough for me to tell them to pack sand just on principle.

[spl310]

I agree that $11k is too high, but I think that $3-4K is too low. The body will certainly need some love. It has a later 1600 block, potentially a stroker if they used the 1500 crank and rods. The engine was assembled by someone who likely paid attention as the longer head bolt appears to be in the correct location. A great car to drive and enjoy. Shame about the radio. Oh, and it looks like it was converted to negative ground based on the alternator. The radiator appears to possibly be a 65 1500 unit - wrong for the car, but not a bad thing.

[spriso]

Wow-- that car is 4 serial numbers from my wife's 1500 (we have 00664).

Rust is a real problem in the 1500s, so be sure to go into this with open eyes....

Michael