My VQ35DE Nissan V6 swap!

[gnoplos]

Small update:

Pulled out the seats and a few other odds and ends before I lift the body. I also pulled off the botched floor patches and got a look at the “minor rust.” I think I’ll be fixing the floors for good before I put it back on the road, being that I’ll more than likely have to chop some of the tunnel out.

(Ps- note the shift knob that I refurbished and rethreaded)

[gnoplos]

Boy oh boy the rot continues! I forgot to get some good pictures but where the frame bends up on both sides around the seating compartment it’s pretty nasty. A smart person would probably scrap the car and start with a better platform but I’m not willing to!

I think my to-do list will be to:
1. Remove engine/trans
2. Fix holes in frame
3. Fit new engine/trans
4. Fully restore frame
5. Fix floors and expand tunnel opening

Here’s what she looks like:

[gnoplos]

Out with the old! The U20 weighs about 75lbs less than the new V6 so that’s not super terrible.

Here’s some shots of the frame rust

[Nissanman]

Yup! Guess where the horse hair pads were

[JT68]

Dude, they don't get much worse than that ( the frame). You seriously would be better off starting with a more solid frame.
You'll exceed the cost of another frame quickly in welding and repairs.

[gnoplos]

Yup! Guess where the horse hair pads were

Exactly! What a stupid design!!!

I don’t think I’ll exceed the cost of a new frame. I can guarantee that I won’t find a mint frame anywhere near Baltimore. Anything I do find will need repairs. And I’ll have to modify parts of it anyway. I also feel very strongly about keeping all these parts out of junkyards.

[Nissanman]

Anything can be repaired, just a matter of time and or economics.
I would peel off that top layer, inspect and repair the chassis channels then weld on a new top.
Keep in mind that it would be wise to jig the chassis before any surgery and welding to keep the specs. correct.
The OEM Maintenance Manual has all the tramming measurements.

[bobd]

I have a complete frame with running gear, not the one with the SR20. PM if interested.

[img2]https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipO ... ujsuZegoRP[/img2]

[gnoplos]

I have a complete frame with running gear, not the one with the SR20. PM if interested.

[img2]https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipO ... ujsuZegoRP[/img2]

I wasn’t able to view that picture. Where are you located?

[bobd]

Lakeland, FL

https://ibb.co/BZdy0ZW

https://ibb.co/HKdX28L

Not sure if these images will work, I can email if you like.

[JT68]

There you go. There are also usually a few solid frames/rollers on ebay. Probably many available in the SE with much fewer issues if you look around. Significantly rusted frames are really not a good starting point for your project or most. Your numbers won't match anyway with a VQ, so not sure I see a disadvantage to sourcing a cleaner piece. Just trying to help your project succeed. Best of luck.

[gnoplos]

Lakeland, FL

https://ibb.co/BZdy0ZW

https://ibb.co/HKdX28L

Not sure if these images will work, I can email if you like.

I appreciate the offer but that’s a little far for me. I’ll most likely try to build some sort of jig like Nissanman said.

Gonna try a place near where I’m going this weekend just to see if he’s got any Frames laying around in good shape just to be sure.

[gnoplos]

ALRIGHTY. So I looked into local deals on a frame. Nada. I found a good deal on a roller that maybe had a nice frame but there was no way to know for sure. Plus, then I’d need to rent a truck, a trailer, find some way to lift the body while my body is on my lift, find somewhere to put that body, find somewhere to put my old frame, etc etc.

That in addition with the modifications I needed to make on the frame anyway meant that I was at least gonna give it a shot to repair the frame.

I spoke with Jeff on here who has done this swap before and he said that he cut the entire X brace out and start from scratch. The junction where the X met the side frame members was one of my main concerns for fixing, so that was a plus. So with that out, I just had to start working my way down the frame with new metal.

I started by bracing the existing metal in weak spots. Then cut the old segments out.

6244135B-0B9B-4F44-91AC-33EB464D7E8D.jpeg

Then I made a CAD template (cardboard aided design;) ).

A14F9481-93D2-412C-9B9F-913F26BB857B.jpeg

After that, I transferred it to metal, leaving space to make a lip to fold over. I think that’s the easiest and strongest way to make it perform as good as factory.

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This is pretty slow going right now because there’s so much going on this time of year but my goal is to have the engine mounted in the restored frame by the end of November.

Obviously something needs to give if I’m ever gonna drop the body down again!

7898AE8E-BD9B-40EF-85BD-A67BAFE89A6D.jpeg

This is what gave lol. (More bracing to come!)

49B0152F-FA1B-4D2B-A5B6-398906FFEB77.jpeg

[gnoplos]

Just a little more pictures of the progress. Working on welding in the other side of the frame. After I. Finish up that side, I just have to weld in a piece parallel to the bottom of the frame, and the top.

I know the welds aren’t perfect but it’s getting there ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

C66D3E69-EFE2-4141-A1F4-0FBD6A6E6AB0.jpeg

5C686105-172F-4D07-B888-2279AF07EEE9.jpeg

[gnoplos]

Making my way around the whole tube, one at a time! Not a huge update for you guys but I’m starting to feel less scared the more I do. Next step will be to hold the engine in place while I figure out where the transmission brace(s) will Be to add a little rigidity there.

I know it still looks like Frankensteins unkempt brother right now, but there’s a lot more trimming and grinding to go!