’64 Roadster Rebuild SPL310-02570C, aka, The Lump.

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Fetch
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Re: ’64 Roadster Rebuild SPL310-02570C, aka, Consuelo

Post by Fetch »

I hope everyone has a good driving new year.
I put 2.5 miles on my roadster last year after getting it running, hope to put more on this year.
A little update. Just running the engine a little this winter to keep the battery charged. I have been hearing a noise coming from the dash when the car is running. Finally traced it down to the tach. The one thing I did not want to do is get into the dash because it had not been molested. So, I pulled the tach and put some lube on the drive gear and wow, it stopped making noise. The assembler/tester (in 1964) wrote on the back of the tach that it is +10. I don't know how they could read 10 rpm's on the tach.
Now, just waiting for some parts I previously ordered and need to order some parts.
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Re: ’64 Roadster Rebuild SPL310-02570C, aka, The Lump.

Post by JT68 »

10% would make sense.
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Re: ’64 Roadster Rebuild SPL310-02570C, aka, Consuelo.

Post by Fetch »

Not much going on in the last month, too cold. I did put some fresh gas in and ran the engine for about a half hour.
I have been collecting miscellaneous parts to be put on in the spring.
Got the complete 310 interior kit in from Dean at Datsunparts. It looks good, saved me a lot of time and money.
I have two clocks, the one in the car runs when it wants to and that is not very often. I gave the other clock to a friend who works on old wind up clocks and had him clean and lube it. Now it runs and keeps time. I will replace the clock in the car with the one that he cleaned when we get some warm weather.
Still need to get the car to a body shop for some frame work. I could actually drive it the the shop, if the weather was warmer or have a friend tow it, which might be the better choice.
The bottom line is, I have a lot to do, when the weather gets better.
Added picture of interior.
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Fetch
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Re: ’64 Roadster Rebuild SPL310-02570C, aka, Consuelo.

Post by Fetch »

While I was fixing a leak at the water pump, I decided to check the valve clearance and rockers.
I found rust on cylinders 3 and 4 rocker arms on the new rocker assembly. The oil is not foamed like water in the oil and there is oil on the head. Running the oil pressure is at 45-50 psi.
I have been running the engine for about a half hour on the weekends. The only thing I can figure is that after running the engine and putting the car in the garage, the valve cover is condensing inside as it cools off.
Has anyone else have this happen?
I will change the oil before I run the engine again to check for any more water. I need to put in the original oil canister and filter.
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Re: ’64 Roadster Rebuild SPL310-02570C, aka, The Lump.

Post by notoptoy »

I would check to make sure that the shaft has not rotated. It looks like the "locking screw" has backed out a bit, which allows the shaft to rotate and blocks the oil galley - result is not enough oil to the top end. This is the small slotted screw head (looks like a set screw) on the firewall side of the rocker assembly. Remove the screw, line up the hole, and reinsert the screw with a little locktite. I would run the engine with the valve cover off to make sure you are getting a good flow of oil across the valve train before buttoning it up.
"When all else fails, force prevails!" Ummm, we're gonna need a bigger hammer here.

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Fetch
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Re: ’64 Roadster Rebuild SPL310-02570C, aka, Consuelo.

Post by Fetch »

The set screw is tight and the rocker shaft has not spun.
Dan
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Re: ’64 Roadster Rebuild SPL310-02570C, aka, The Lump.

Post by Fetch »

Not much going on in the past month.
I am at the point where I need to get the frame worked on before I continue with the project.
I have contacted three local shops in Spokane and so far no luck. I have another shop to contact on Friday.
If any one knows of a frame shop in Spokane, let me know.
Thanks.
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Re: ’64 Roadster Rebuild SPL310-02570C, aka, Consuelo..

Post by Fetch »

Just a short update. I may have put the cart before the horse, I have the title so I updated the registration,got plates and ins.
I have been driving it around on short trips and it is a handful but fun. Really need to put some miles on the engine, so far I have about 3 miles on the rebuild. Figure I need 500 miles for engine break-in.
I should be getting a new exhaust system on in a couple of weeks. Then it is off the the body shop with the cooler weather coming on.
I do need to get used to how low it sits, hard to see around the bushes at intersections.
Fetch
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Re: ’64 Roadster Rebuild SPL310-02570C, aka, Consuelo

Post by Fetch »

Been a while since last update, getting warm enough to work in my garage.
Unfortunately had a couple of things came up that ate up my roadster fund money. So, new parts are on hold. I have a complete interior ready to go in but, I need to get body work done first. I will be working on the small stuff that does not cost too much, like replacing all the brake lines, change the oil, check for leaks, etc.
I really wanted to drive it this summer.
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Re: ’64 Roadster Rebuild SPL310-02570C, aka, The Lump.

Post by notoptoy »

Don't you just hate it when life gets in the way of a Roadster Fantasy?! :-)
Great attitude though. And the small things need to get done sometime, so why not now?
"When all else fails, force prevails!" Ummm, we're gonna need a bigger hammer here.

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Re: ’64 Roadster Rebuild SPL310-02570C, aka, The Lump.

Post by spl310 »

You can bend up new brake lines cheap by buying the straight ones from the local auto parts store
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Re: ’64 Roadster Rebuild SPL310-02570C, aka, The Lump.

Post by Gregs672000 »

Yep, I've always been on a budget... it's taken me 36 years to get the car to where it is now. Now is the time to do the cleaning, the repositioning, the checking, the polishing and restoring... all stuff that needs to be done and keeps the project moving forward. It will put a smile on your face when you dig out some cleaned up or restored part you did months earlier that's now ready to go on the car! Big smiles my friend.
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Re: ’64 Roadster Rebuild SPL310-02570C, aka, The Lump.

Post by C.Costine »

Yes, condensation is common inside the valve cover. That is one reason why the vent is there. Short run times are severe service for any motor. One product of combustion is water. Most goes out the tail pipe. I am sure that you have seen it on the floor behind the car. Some of it makes its way into the crankcase and from there up through the oil drain back passages to under the valve cover. With no load on the motor it takes awhile for enough heat to build up to drive the H2O out. Save your motor by getting a battery maintainer to keep the battery up.
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Re: ’64 Roadster Rebuild SPL310-02570C, aka, The Lump.

Post by Fetch »

Thanks for the input.
I have bulk brake line to bend up.
I am working on year 8 of my 5 year plan to get the car running. This year was the year to get the bodywork done and interior in. So much for plans.
I will be doing what I can.
Fetch
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Re: ’64 Roadster Rebuild SPL310-02570C, aka, Consuelo.

Post by Fetch »

Yes, I am still working on the car. Been too hot to do much. I did get the seats upholstered and took the grandkids for a ride a couple times around the block.
I need to get some more seat foam in the back, but they are comfortable. New seat belts, the old ones were rotted.
After a couple of turns when I came to a stop the engine would die. Started right back up when I turned the key. Slight fuel issue I need to sort.
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