Matt's KA24DE Swap

[mattanonymous]

Thanks for the info!

I originally got the 2000 radiator, but it's too wide for the 1970 1600 due to the size of the steering box, so I went with the 1600.

Ok, so I should be able to get away with using this radiator and running an overflow line to the expansion tank from either the "T" (with the tube toward the engine capped off) or the "T" deleted and a tube running from the upper radiator hose fill neck?

[notoptoy]

I would go from the t, capping off the unused port.

[spl310]

If you get an inline filler neck, they typically have a vent tube. Connect it to the tube pointing towards the engine. Connect the other to the surge tank. Problem solved.

[Mattk]

Just a quick question; The 2000 radiator, could you have slid it a bit to the right or was there interference as well? I’m looking to get the 2000 radiator as well. I have a 70 tub on a 68 frame (with 69 fenders) and I’m thinking of using the 70 steering box, that’s why I’m curious.

Keep on keeping on

Cheers
Matthew

[mattanonymous]

I'll double check when I get home but I believe I was running into the steering linkage on the other side with the 2000 radiator if I moved it to the right. On https://www.championradiators.com/Fabrication-and-mods it says they'll add a filler neck for $80. I'll try to remember to look tonight, but I'm almost certain I'd have made the 2000 radiator work if I thought it was possible.

Also, I replied to your message about the alternator bracket. I want to make sure the design will work for you before doing the work of making the model.

Update. The 1600 (CC1600) and 2000 (CC2000) radiators cores are different in height and width. I didn't have a good measuring tool handy so I used the next best thing. Between the steering linkage and the height of the 2000 radiator, I don't think it's easy to make work with a late model steering box.

1600RadiatorDistanceToSteeringLink.jpg

1600RadiatorDimensions.jpg

2000RadiatorDimensions.png

[mattanonymous]

Getting this thing on the road is starting to feel within reach!

I really didn't want to have the intake piping go across the engine bay to get distance from the MAF sensor. For one, I don't like the look and second, I'm not a huge fan of sucking in air from the exhaust side of the motor. The obvious choice to me was to do a 180 degree sweep along the passenger side. I love the way it came out.

I gave up on trying to find an upper radiator hose that would have all of the necessary bends, so I welded some pie cuts onto the filler neck tube and managed to use a couple pieces of hose from a 240sx lower hose. The welds are ugly, but they'll work and I'll redo it when I'm better at aluminum welding. I like the way the filler neck crosses over the intake piping. Not seen is the bottom hose where I used another piece of aluminum tubing in order to add in a temp sensor/switch and ground for the electric fan trigger.

topViewEngineBayWithCoolingSystemDone.jpg

This weekend I drilled a hole in the firewall for the wiring harness. It's a 1.25 inch hole because that's the size of the boot I found. It was a tight squeeze, but it worked! I also found a guy in PA that has a bunch of Miatas and decided to pick up some reupholstered NA seats from him since the frames of the original seats aren't in the best shape. I like that they have speakers in the headrests too. Makes a lot of sense for a convertible. Of course, now I want to do a roll bar too. The seats look great. I'll probably remove some foam because they do feel a little high for me.

withMiataSeat.jpg

My mini goal right now is to get the motor running with fuel from the tank now that everything is in the car. Need some more wiring, intake manifold gasket, and to connect the rear hardlines with hose. I should be able to get that done this week. After that there's still a bunch that needs to be done, but I can finally see the light at the end of the tunnel.

[Mattk]

Thanks for the images of the radiator. Looks like Old Abe is in a tight place.
I think I might try a del sol (they’re kind inexpensive) and if the doesn’t work I’ll go Champion.

For the seats, which I’m also doing, I found this https://www.3rdstrategy.com/catalog1.html
Looks good to me I’ll probably do the retrofit kit for mine.

I might also do their air horns as well. Can never have a load enough horn in our cars!

Keep on keepin on

Cheers
Matthew

[mattanonymous]

Writing this because I'm pretty jazzed at the moment. I've been trying to get the motor started in the car now that the fuel lines are there and the harness is through the firewall. I've had a heck of a time getting it running, but I've learned a lot.

The issues I ran into are as follows:

• * Bad grounds (need to get the engine ground tied in better to the body and frame)
  * Distributor was off by a tooth
  * 3 bad injectors
  * Bad fuel pressure regulator

The injectors and regulator came with a nicer looking manifold I picked up (someone spray painted the one that came with the motor).

Anyway, it runs! The current caveats are that I have to have the MAF sensor disconnected to keep it running and the alternator doesn't seem to be charging. I'm hoping the MAF issue isn't due to my custom intake piping, but it could be as simple as actually tightening the hose clamps around the couplings. As for the alternator, I'm guessing it's a grounding issue, but I thought I'd solved it.

I'm trying to get the car on the road (at least for up and down the block) by Thanksgiving. Still lots left to do!

[Mattk]

Congratulations on getting it running!!
If you’re running stock injectors I have some, not sure their condition but you can have them.

Matthew

[mattanonymous]

Thanks! I think I should be good though. All of the injectors on the other manifold work, so I have those installed now.

[mattanonymous]

Life really got in the way of this project. First I was on a roll with my basement renovation while it was too cold to be in the garage and then I came down with a touch of cancer (non-hodgkin's lymphoma at 34!?) The cancer is all gone after 6 months or so if chemo, thank God!

So now that I'm back at it, I'm thinking I need to redo the motor and transmission mounts. I've seen the motor needs to be tilted back between 3 and 5 degrees, but where should I put my angle finder? The tail of the transmission before the shifter?

[DAC21]

Life really got in the way of this project. First I was on a roll with my basement renovation while it was too cold to be in the garage and then I came down with a touch of cancer (non-hodgkin's lymphoma at 34!?) The cancer is all gone after 6 months or so if chemo, thank God!

So now that I'm back at it, I'm thinking I need to redo the motor and transmission mounts. I've seen the motor needs to be tilted back between 3 and 5 degrees, but where should I put my angle finder? The tail of the transmission before the shifter?

Congrats on your recovery. My best buddy of 45 years had the same last year. Most treatable form is my understanding but there were times he thought he wasn't going to make it after chemo started. The pelvic bone marrow taps were rough, and being claustrophobic the MRI's were an adventure. Stay healthy!

[Mattk]

Matt

Please forgive my language but FUCK CANCER!!! and I am happy that you did just that! Congrats on beating it back!

As for the level I put mine on the shift plate on the tranny. Its good and flat and not rotated like the head of the motor. Now my question to you is where did you find that 3-5 degrees number? I think I set mine to 1 degree after not finding the right number.

Cheers
Matthew

[mattanonymous]

Thanks guys! Yes, the kind I had (PMBCL) was very treatable and is unlikely to come back. The treatment was no joke, but I didn't have any bone marrow taps. That sounds awful!

Matthew, I just went back to my notes and I'm not seeing anything. Maybe I'm thinking of something I saw for the SR? Researching online it seems the correct way to do it for the drive shaft to be happy is to imagine a centerline extending out from the transmission and another centerline extending out from the differential and make those two lines parallel (when viewing from the side). The angles can be adjusted at either end by changing the engine/motor mounts or shimming the rear leaf springs at the clamps (assuming stock suspension). I don't think it has to be exact, but if you're getting vibration or CVs that wear out prematurely, it probably needs to be adjusted.

Pinion Angle MD-1.jpg

I pulled the above picture from this article (although there are many articles out there). https://www.hotrodhotline.com/setting-pinion-angle

[Mattk]

Okay that’s the same thing I did, even referenced the same article among others. I looked for the factory able but could never really get a straight (no pun intended) answer. I can’t remember right now but I think I’m at 1 degrees.

Cheers
Matthew