CA18DET swap in the Netherlands

Discuss engine swap details here!

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peter
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Re: CA18DET swap in the Netherlands

Post by peter »

I relocated the Aircleaner to the front and the length is also better now, hopefully he takes less hot air now.
I also relocated the Turbo-pipe, the reason was that the aircleaner get more space now and could be relocated as well.
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The engine room looks much cleaner now.
The only thing I want to do is make alu or plastic plates to force the air into the radiator.
The boostcontroller will I fit later, when all the other parts, like new gauges, changing the fuel tank etc.
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Horsepower is how hard you hit the wall,torque is how far you take the wall with you.
Datsun Roadster '66 #7000 Sora Blue, restored 220 Hp and 340 Nm
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ppeters914
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Re: CA18DET swap in the Netherlands

Post by ppeters914 »

Interesting thread.
peter wrote:I drove this year till now about 5000 miles with this engine and must say, great fun and cheap driving, fuel consumption about 1liter on 13km ave-ridge, at the high way at 130kph.
About 30mpg.......NICE!
Pete
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peter
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Re: CA18DET swap in the Netherlands

Post by peter »

Great isn't it. :mrgreen:
Horsepower is how hard you hit the wall,torque is how far you take the wall with you.
Datsun Roadster '66 #7000 Sora Blue, restored 220 Hp and 340 Nm
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Re: CA18DET swap in the Netherlands

Post by Daryl Smith »

Sounds like you have most of the fuel delivery addressed, but didn't see anything about the injectors? Are you sure the injectors have the capacity to supply enough fuel at the horsepower you expect to achieve?
Factory injectors usually are capable for some increase, but it would be a good idea to make sure...Typically you shoot for about 80% duty cycle.
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peter
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Re: CA18DET swap in the Netherlands

Post by peter »

Correct Daryl,

I had read that the 380cc injectors can go up to 270 hp with one bar(stage 2) and garret T28, after that you have to replace them by 440cc injectors.
But first I go for 1 bar with the T25 and hope to get 220-230 hp (stage 1).
200 hp is already normal with 0.6 bar with an good intercooler and without emission controller and a open exhaust.
Today I finished the fuel problem in the tank, was sucking with problems when the tank was halve empty, now I take the fuel under need the tank and that works great. for the temperature I installed a hood over the radiator and intercooler.
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Horsepower is how hard you hit the wall,torque is how far you take the wall with you.
Datsun Roadster '66 #7000 Sora Blue, restored 220 Hp and 340 Nm
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peter
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Re: CA18DET swap in the Netherlands

Post by peter »

I'm busy with my fuel tank because i have still problems with a lower fuel level.
When my fuel tank is halve empty and I give her full throttle, I got a fuel cut.
Last year I changed the fuel suction to the bottom, and that helps a little bit, but not enough.
I have an idea to bring true the tophole an bowl inside with on the frontside some holes to let the fuel in when its on a lower lever, and the height as high as possible. I don't know if that will work or that the fuel will go over the top of the bowl. What did you do to solve this problem, I work with a bosch pump behind the tank. But I don't wanna make a bulb under the tank. and will there be enough fuel in that small bowl during acceleration?
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Horsepower is how hard you hit the wall,torque is how far you take the wall with you.
Datsun Roadster '66 #7000 Sora Blue, restored 220 Hp and 340 Nm
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richard
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Re: CA18DET swap in the Netherlands

Post by richard »

Fuel surge tank?
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Re: CA18DET swap in the Netherlands

Post by Daryl Smith »

Is your pump level with or below the bottom of the tank?
Don't want to put an in-tank pump? Works well, and is quieter than external pumps...
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fj20spl311
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Re: CA18DET swap in the Netherlands

Post by fj20spl311 »

If you have an external pump, I would suggest a two pump system.
The first pump is a low pressure pump that fills a surge tank of 1-2 L. There is a return to the stock tank at the top. It returns both air and excess fuel. At the bottom of the tank there is a fitting for the high pressure pump or it can also be mounted inside the surge tank.

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peter
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Re: CA18DET swap in the Netherlands

Post by peter »

Daryl Smith wrote:Is your pump level with or below the bottom of the tank?
Don't want to put an in-tank pump? Works well, and is quieter than external pumps...
Dayl, I have only a bosch 044 pump at the side of the tank, and I like an in-tank pump as well but are there pumps that fit, and I don't want a bulb under my tank. With a surge tank I got two pumps, and more noise. I heard about a honda civic in-tank pump but don't know which type.
The problem is always, during corners and during hard acceleration when the tank is under the middle.
But would that bulb into the tank (that I draw)not help me to keep constantly some fuel under the suction part?
Since I placed the suck connection under the tank, it's much better than before.
Horsepower is how hard you hit the wall,torque is how far you take the wall with you.
Datsun Roadster '66 #7000 Sora Blue, restored 220 Hp and 340 Nm
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Re: CA18DET swap in the Netherlands

Post by Ed Mason »

Honda Civic? gas tank from junkyard. Found info searching this thread. Used the fuel pump section of the tank and the catch can. Did the work myself because I am a cheapskate. Used a new walbro 255lph fuel pump for the Honda application. Straight bolt in. No hesitation, or stalling, no issues under full acceleration. I think the junkyard charged me 20.00 for the complete tank, pretty good spread of years on the Honda tank, so plenty in the junkyard. Also used a Summit Racing billet aluminum fuel filter high flow. 3/8" fuel line from tank to engine. Sorry I can't help right now on the Honda year application. That info is here, maybe someone can point where.
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Re: CA18DET swap in the Netherlands

Post by devo »

Ed Mason wrote:Honda Civic? gas tank from junkyard. Found info searching this thread. Used the fuel pump section of the tank and the catch can. Did the work myself because I am a cheapskate. Used a new walbro 255lph fuel pump for the Honda application. Straight bolt in. No hesitation, or stalling, no issues under full acceleration. I think the junkyard charged me 20.00 for the complete tank, pretty good spread of years on the Honda tank, so plenty in the junkyard. Also used a Summit Racing billet aluminum fuel filter high flow. 3/8" fuel line from tank to engine. Sorry I can't help right now on the Honda year application. That info is here, maybe someone can point where.

http://www.311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.ph ... ank#p66408

http://www.311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.ph ... mp#p116556

http://www.311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.ph ... mp#p162701
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peter
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Re: CA18DET swap in the Netherlands

Post by peter »

Thanks, that's what I need.
Horsepower is how hard you hit the wall,torque is how far you take the wall with you.
Datsun Roadster '66 #7000 Sora Blue, restored 220 Hp and 340 Nm
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Re: CA18DET swap in the Netherlands

Post by Gregs672000 »

What a great list! Step by step to fix Peter's problems... how cool is that! I was happy to see that Michael gave a warning about welding on gas tanks... had a vocational rehabilitation client many yrs ago who lost his eye and blew his right hand off welding on a gas tank...
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Re: CA18DET swap in the Netherlands

Post by spriso »

Greg wrote:

[quote] I was happy to see that Michael gave a warning about welding on gas tanks... had a vocational rehabilitation client many yrs ago who lost his eye and blew his right hand off welding on a gas tank...{/quote]

Thank you for noting that, and it is the reason why we don't give a step-by-step tutorial for how to convert the fuel tank as this really should be left to the experts.

The Honda In-tank fuel pump conversion is awesome, and we have done lots of them, but please take any work on modifying gas tanks seriously!

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