1970 SRL311 Resto-mod - SR20DET (Lucy)

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Mattk
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Re: 1970 SRL311 Resto-mod - SR20DET (Lucy)

Post by Mattk »

That’s what I’m doing too. But I’m either going to do what y’all are doing or I’m going with a marine tip that has a trim piece around the pipe.

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Re: 1970 SRL311 Resto-mod - SR20DET (Lucy)

Post by RustyBucket »

Some hot buns on the grill😤
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Re: 1970 SRL311 Resto-mod - SR20DET (Lucy)

Post by RustyBucket »

Even the original exhaust system made the driver’s floor hot. The thin little sheet of fiberglass battan clipped into the neath floor pan was of little use and only collected damp mud/gunk to rust away to pa. At least on my car.
Good luck with locating the bits to fit and w/o toasting you bupkies!!
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Re: 1970 SRL311 Resto-mod - SR20DET (Lucy)

Post by beebo »

SOUPY wrote: Wed Nov 16, 2022 10:31 am I'm likin it! I haven't thought about glass pack style mufflers running inside the rocker box area. I was leaning more towards a flowmaster with both in and out on same end so the muffler would be behind drivers seat as much as possible. Don't forget how hot a cat might get in your placement of things! Good luck on the project and keep the post coming.
That is a great point about the temperature of the cats. I'm not sure if I have enough space for the cat plus enough heat insulation/shielding to keep everything safe. I honestly didn't even think about that.
RustyBucket wrote: Wed Nov 16, 2022 4:01 pm Even the original exhaust system made the driver’s floor hot. The thin little sheet of fiberglass battan clipped into the neath floor pan was of little use and only collected damp mud/gunk to rust away to pa. At least on my car.
Good luck with locating the bits to fit and w/o toasting you bupkies!!
True True. The plan was to wrap the entire exhaust with that woven fiberglass header wrap. I remember that keeping things pretty cool on the downpipe of my old RB26 240sx. If that isn't enough, I have TONS of Dynamat Xtreme that I got off a jobsite at work. A couple layers of that on the floorboards should take care of things.
Mattk wrote: Wed Nov 16, 2022 2:15 pm That’s what I’m doing too. But I’m either going to do what y’all are doing or I’m going with a marine tip that has a trim piece around the pipe.

Cheers
Have you found a product that works/fits? There is about 3.5-4.0" of body below the floorboards. You'd have to run pretty small diameter tips to still have a frame around the bottom side of the exit. I guess you could cut up into the inner body structure and exit a bit higher. I'm interested in what you figure out.


Well, I spent my day today mainly on the exhaust since it was fresh on my mind. I took my 24" and 16" mufflers and cut the non-muffled part of them off. This left me with 20" and 12" of glass pack. I then welded these together with a short piece of pipe. This piece of pipe thins out the outer diameter right where there is the body gusset. despite this, I still had to take an angle grinder with a flapper-wheel sander to the gussets to round them out and provide more clearance for the pipe. Everything fits quite nicely up under there and has some wiggle room.

The front body mount coming off of the frame is giving me the most trouble. I have to both round out the body gussets (like i did to the ones a couple feet back), AND make a huge notch out of the actual body mounting bracket itself. This is flimsy bent sheet metal, and nowhere near strong enough after I cut it, so I had to reinforce it. Basically I cut a 3/16" plate and laid it on top of the whole body mount, and then welded it to it. So that last little cantilevered bit beyond the gusseted part is plenty strong. I still need to trim a bit more of the gusseted part after further test fits. It is so damn hard grinding and welding on the frame with the body on or slightly jacked up.

I had made that dual curve exhaust tip quite a long time ago, and it needs a bit of modification to actually fit how I want it to. Thankfully It is just tack welded in place currently. I cut off a little pie-cut of pipe to push it rearward and angle it forward a bit. I should be able to get that welded up soon. All of the work today was coated in POR-15 as was the alternator notch I had welded up a few weeks ago.

Here's some pictures:
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Cheers,
Wade
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Re: 1970 SRL311 Resto-mod - SR20DET (Lucy)

Post by beebo »

Oh yeah, I almost forgot! I got all of the calipers off of the car and ready for rebuild. I have had the rebuild kits for quite some time, I just have been putting this off for a while. For the caliper color, I am thinking about going bronze/gold.
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Cheers,
Wade
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Re: 1970 SRL311 Resto-mod - SR20DET (Lucy)

Post by RustyBucket »

Is that SS exhaust? Looks like a sweet weld thatt I see / nice job👍👍
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Re: 1970 SRL311 Resto-mod - SR20DET (Lucy)

Post by Gregs672000 »

Heat Shield products makes some excellent heat barrier materials. I'm using their products to wrap my header, and when installed as they recommend it will not harm your piping.
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Re: 1970 SRL311 Resto-mod - SR20DET (Lucy)

Post by beebo »

RustyBucket wrote: Wed Nov 16, 2022 10:34 pm Is that SS exhaust? Looks like a sweet weld thatt I see / nice job👍👍
Yep it's all stainless. Typically I will tack weld it in place with the MIG since it is easier to use underneath the car, and then finish it up with the TIG on the bench. This is actually neither! When I was at Airgas the other day getting a new bottle of Argon, I overheard two of the guys there talking about flux-cored stainless wire. It was expensive but I HAD to try it. Just changed the polarity of the welder and swap in the spool. It welded beautifully! (for flux core anyways) It went down really smooth and had almost no spatter like I experience with regular steel flux cored wire. This is a great option for those just running simple wire-feed welders that want to do stainless. It was expensive though. I think 70 bucks for a spool.
Gregs672000 wrote: Wed Nov 16, 2022 11:19 pm Heat Shield products makes some excellent heat barrier materials. I'm using their products to wrap my header, and when installed as they recommend it will not harm your piping.
Thanks for this. They look like they have quality stuff, and just what I would be needing. I think enough of something like this along with a separate heat shield and Dynamat on the floors, Things should stay pretty cool.
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dsa.JPG
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Cheers,
Wade
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Re: 1970 SRL311 Resto-mod - SR20DET (Lucy)

Post by William »

Late to the thread but I have so say this project is looking great!
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Re: 1970 SRL311 Resto-mod - SR20DET (Lucy)

Post by RustyBucket »

That’s interesting about the Flux core for SS.
I’ve attempted to lean TIG and MIG to repairs the rockers. Man that thin 18guage is sooo easy to blow a hole through 😤

I got a real appreciation for a tech who can really weld! Not as was as the YouTube videos make it seem..
Well the pipe looks great and should have a Good rumble to it , once hung up !
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Re: 1970 SRL311 Resto-mod - SR20DET (Lucy)

Post by beebo »

William wrote: Thu Nov 17, 2022 12:34 pm Late to the thread but I have so say this project is looking great!
William
Thanks William, welcome!
RustyBucket wrote: Thu Nov 17, 2022 4:54 pm That’s interesting about the Flux core for SS.
I’ve attempted to lean TIG and MIG to repairs the rockers. Man that thin 18guage is sooo easy to blow a hole through 😤

I got a real appreciation for a tech who can really weld! Not as was as the YouTube videos make it seem..
Well the pipe looks great and should have a Good rumble to it , once hung up !
I got pretty comfortable using the mig on the thin stuff. You just got to lay tons of tack welds next to each other and not give it the chance to blow through. My problem is always the work leading up to the weld. I'll usually have poor fitup in certain areas where I'll have to build up the weld. I read a good quote on here somewhere "my grinder and paint make me the welder I ain't". I'd love to give credit, but I can't remember where I read it.
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Re: 1970 SRL311 Resto-mod - SR20DET (Lucy)

Post by RustyBucket »

Grinder, BONDO, & paint. I think it goes ….
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Re: 1970 SRL311 Resto-mod - SR20DET (Lucy)

Post by RustyBucket »

Grinder, BONDO, & paint. I think it goes ….


At least in my ‘hood. , so far
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Re: 1970 SRL311 Resto-mod - SR20DET (Lucy)

Post by beebo »

I got the calipers stripped all stripped out. Basically I put a piece of wood about the thickness of the rotors into the calipers and shot some compressed air int them. The pistons came out with a bang. Without the piece of wood, only the easiest to move piston will pop all the way out and then you can't put pressure in the caliper to push the other pistons out. Anyways, All parts, bleed screws, seals, etc. were removed, and all the caliper halves were thrown in a big Rubbermaid container, covered with a liberal coating of degreaser and dawn dish soap, and then I filled it with enough water to cover the calipers. I left it to soak overnight, and I'll scrub them all clean tomorrow if I get another block of time to work on this stuff. I'm leaning toward gold/bronze for the caliper color. Red, yellow and blue are too much. Black and silver aren't really visible behind the Mesh wheels. I think some shade of bronze would be just perfect.
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Cheers,
Wade
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Re: 1970 SRL311 Resto-mod - SR20DET (Lucy)

Post by RustyBucket »

Dawn soap and hot water is amazing stuff,, soo much better than “safety Klein’ chemicals. I’m sure I didn’t do my self any favors as a high kid spinin’ wrench st tge corner Mobil station in the day 😱
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