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68 2000-CHAMPION RADIATOR

Posted: Fri Mar 06, 2015 7:13 pm
by One Way
I just finished installing the Champion #CC2000 aluminum 3 core radiator in the roadster resurrection project. Everything fit in very nicely. I just have to do the plumbing now. The top hose and thermostat housing had to be replaced before I got the engine to start and run with the old radiator which not surprisingly sprung a leak after 20-30 minutes of running. The new Champion unit was actually less money than some of the quotes to repair the old original radiator. Right now my main concern is the bottom radiator hose. The outlet on the Champion points slightly upward and appears it will be a close fit with the engine pulley. I used a Gates flex hose #25251 on the top and fit perfectly. Not sure if the flex hose would bend tight enough on the bottom to clear the engine pulley so I will try the WIKI TECH suggestion of Gates #20783. I will hope for the best to get the plumbing completed this weekend. Please let me know of any bottom hose issues the roadster experts have had. Thanks, John-Lugoff, SC

Re: 68 2000-CHAMPION RADIATOR

Posted: Sat Mar 07, 2015 12:51 am
by krismon
get some wire or coat hanger to bent to the shape & length you need and ask to go in the back of the local auto parts store and dig around for a hose that works for you.. I've done that several times with great success.

Re: 68 2000-CHAMPION RADIATOR

Posted: Sat Mar 07, 2015 12:57 am
by fj20spl311
If your motor mounts are soft, watch out for the u joint bolt rubbing when the engine mounts flex.

Re: 68 2000-CHAMPION RADIATOR

Posted: Sun Mar 15, 2015 6:48 pm
by One Way
The Gates #20783 fit nicely for the bottom radiator hose. I had to cut off exactly 2" from the radiator end for the hose to clear the engine pulley. As noted above the hose does come very close to the u-joints on the steering shaft. I have about 3/8 to 1/2 inch clearance. I may try to secure the hose with a clamp or bracket but I really want to get the engine started again and be sure we have a properly functioning cooling system, as well as the new mechanical temperature gauge and the related plumbing. Hopefully I can tackle that project next weekend and get to hear the engine running again.
It has been just over 1 year since I got the engine to start and run but have been busy in that time doing the rewiring, brake system-front calipers still on hold-and other odds and ends on this abandoned roadster resurrection project. Thanks, John-Lugoff, SC