Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

I'm in the process of restoring the centre console in my '69 2000. The metal trim around the ashtray and the ashtray cover were a bit corroded and in need of a new finish. The original paint was kind of silver, but I decided to try Dupli-Color Chrome and was pretty pleased with the results, although the parallel trim lines on the ashtray cover have disappeared. I expect this would happen with most any paint product though.

Before


After


Thinking of a couple of coats of clear coat for protection might be a good idea.

Bruce

The parts came in a metal finish, not paint Your paint choice is very nice. I like the look.

Ross
sports imports

Thanks Ross.

BTW I followed your suggestion of repairing my broken / seized accelerator cable with a bicycle brake cable. I was able to salvage and reuse the cable ends and spring that fit the brackets at the firewall and intake manifold - looks wimpy compared to the original cable but works great!

Bruce

UPDATE - Thought an update was in order to maybe save someone else some grief. I really liked the look of the chrome paint, but it really smudged up while installing back into my re-covered console. So I repainted with the chrome paint, and then applied a clear coat for protection. Problem was, the clear coat reacted with the chrome paint turning it a dark gray. After stripping the gray I tried again, same result. So, unless the chrome will be behind glass and never touched, save your time and money!

Next tried Rust-Oleum Metallic which had a nice finish but not as shiny as the Chrome. I was able to apply clear coat over top, so this is what it ended up looking like. The metallic doesn't show up in the pic but it is noticeable.




Here are the products I used.




Hope this saves someone a headache.
Bruce

I had the same problem with the chrome paint. not worth it.

Nice!

I used the metallic paint for same but didn't clear coat it. It turns darker, grayish over time...I'd expect the clear coat will protect it from aging.

I forgot to mention I also have had good luck with the metallic. I did my front bumper metallic until I can get it chromed. Put a good clear on it and it still looks great.

Just to clarify... When you said Rust-Oleum Metallic, you meant Rust-Oleum *Silver* Metallic? Correct?

Thanks

Mark

Did you re-cover the center console? If so, can you show some close-ups or give hints on how to do it or where to start?

I purchased a hard plastic cover, (like those provided for a 68+ dash by everyone) from Dean. (But I suspect you can buy it from other roadster suppliers). It was a simple matter of dis-assembly, trimming the cracks, a little filling of holes with bondo, and then gluing it on with gorilla glue. Looks great and it included a new arm rest too.

Mark

Mark, post some pics. Before and after would be awesome.

I haven't checked back here for awhile, and I see Mark hasn't posted any pics so I'll share some of mine. I used the plastic vacuum formed console cover from Dean too. The fit was generally good but my method of clamping & gluing was a bit shaky as you'll see. I decided to do the console first before tackling the dash and glove box, and am I ever glad I did!

My console was in pretty rough shape and very brittle:



I started with the armrest lid



My plan was to pre-shape the cover by bending the edges over the lids edges



I first cut away the flaky edges of the cracks and applied body filler for an even surface



Then using the silicone adhesive supplied with the cover I glued the cover on and clamped it every which way I could, using wax paper to avoid gluing the wood strips to the new cover.



Then I tried gluing the sides and the front edge overlap which is most visible. I found using metal strips a better method as the silicone didn't stick to it but any squeeze out was left very flat and smooth.



The angles on the lid made it impossible to glue everything at once. After a trial fit with the console cover in place but not yet glued, I realized that there was no way I could overlap the sides and the back edge needed to be trimmed.



After notching out the rear edge I realized that the original was not square but the cover was.



More clamping required.



Then I carefully trimmed the edges flush to the lid bottom with my angle grinder. Then another trial fit with hinges and latch after slotting the bolt holes in both.



Then I went to work on the console cutting away flaky plastic and applying body filler.



On one side the original base foam had lifted away from the metal and had to be re-glued.



This created a concave area which had to be filled.



After several trial fittings I realized that the front areas around the ashtray and shifter needed to be built up to fill the spaces under the cover.



Time to glue on the cover. I didn't think I could clamp everywhere at once so I used some lengths of thin bungee cord and wrapped it up .



This wasn't as successful as I'd hoped. I should have used strips of wood or something along the bottom edges since I got some bulging between where the cords were. And there wasn't an even distribution of adhesive so these edges had to be redone and clamped anyway.



The area around the shifter was difficult to hold in place and had to be re-glued as well.



Once finished I cleaned thoroughly with ammonia and even resorted to acetone to get rid of the silicone mess I made through all this. This dulled the cover but I planned on spraying all the new parts and any vinyl or black pieces not being replaced with a black SEM interior semi-gloss product anyway. Here it is painted.



In the end I was pleased with the results.

Regards,
Bruce

Excellent write up ! I am considering purchasing the same cover.

Wow! Great job! My box cover had been redone previously because of the "elbow spot" in a soft vinyl / leather so I had to try and recreate the original size and consistancy. My suggestion to anyone doing this is to use the stock shape with the messed up "foam" as much as possible.
IMO Bruce's prep work was the key to the excellent result.

Thanks guys. Here is the SEM product I used on the finished console and the recovered dash too. I highly recommend this stuff. It covers evenly and dries rapidly. I sprayed the shift plate and the vinyl boot and now they also look like new. The vacuum formed plastic pieces were quite shiny and with the satin black they now look almost like leather.



Bruce.