Car starts - won't run

[mraitch]

My fuse box cover is same as above photo(can't get to 256K) except
Flasher and park tail are 20A iso 10A

Why on earth would the "flasher" fuse blow??

Before trying Dave's test - turned car on and va-va-voom. Resistor is 2.8-2.9 ohms - is this within tolerance??

Interesting keyboard attachment David <G>

[mraitch]

Ongoing
Started car - ran fine - no fuse blowing - all ok - then it stopped.
Jumped '+' battery to '-' ballast - car started - then died when removed.
Jumped ballast resistor - car wouldn't start
Resistor tests out at 2.8 ohms
With ign in run got 12.12 at both ends of ballast and both connex of coil
removed negative battery and all dropped to .5
battery tests out at 12.12

any more thorts ??

[notoptoy]

I think perhaps you are overheating the coil and the car cuts out once it gets hot? Is the coil hot to the touch? Is the resistor still getting hot to the touch? Definitely seems that something heat related is going on. Is it possible to convert back to points? You may be having an internal issue with the Pertronix.
I run a pertronix in my Chevy and do not use a resistor, but am using the Pertronix Flame Thrower coil, with no issues.

[mraitch]

certainly the heat logic might have a bearing - will leave it overnight - try tmw and check coil and ballast temp

[roadsterred]

My understanding of the resistor is to drop the voltage from 13+ volts to 6 - 9 volts when the ignition is in the running position and the engine running because the ignition coil is typically rated from 6 to 9 volts.

If you're getting 12.2 volts from either end of the resistor when the ignition is in the running position, the resistor does not appear to be working. Resistors typically "burn out" and create and "open" i.e. no continuity and voltage output at the opposite end, instead of straight continuity with no resistance.

According to the Petronix web site, their ignitor is designed to accept voltages ranging from 8 volts to 16 volts DC.

Just a thought, your resistor bypass wiring from your ignition switch in the "start" position may be "open" and that is why the engine started when you "jumpered" a wire from the battery + terminal to the - end of the resistor. Hopefully, I read your description correctly, if not I apologize.

[mraitch]

Apparently fixed - we will see after short run - appears to have been an intermittent connection in the RUN wire - replaced connector - seems all ok
Thanks for all advice. EI soon!!!!!