Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

dbrick wrote:If I had to take a guess, I'd say replace the pickup coil, they're cheap and easy to change, and try a module if you can borrow one.
Only other car I ever saw throwing extra sparks was a 4 cyl GM with a HEI. Had 4 extra waves on the oscilloscope and the tach went nuts. After checking every part, it was the pickup coil. Different physiclly fromm a Datsun EI, but same principles.

Dave, what is a "pickup coil"? I have tried two different ignition coils.

Just for the heck of it try a new fuel filter and also blow back on the fuel line from the tank, briefly, and see if you hear the air bubbling in the tank. Might be some debris in there .

Linda

The pick-up coil is inside the distributor and a bit tougher to get too, it is pictured here. I sent the EI manual to you via PM, it shows how they go together in one illustration, you can get to it. I have seen the pick-ups on E-bay, and available at Rock auto (looking for a '79-81 Datsun 210 or 310). I can also get one to you and a module if you can't find one to try locally - just PM me.

Thanks for the tips. I'm cramming for an insurance exam today at 1:00. Maybe after I fail my test, I can start some work on the roadster! Linda, I'm going to change the fuel filter just to eliminate that from the equation. All brand new fuel lines, tank was nice and clean as well. But you never know what can get stuck where on a 40+ year old car!

Kyle

Try disconnecting the tach. I doubt it's the problem but it's in the ignition circuit. You never know?

Paul

Well, Paul, you helped me out on the headlight relay, so I had better eliminate the tach as well. You seem to know your electrical.

I guess today was one of the random days the car did not act up. Got a chance to hook up my wideband 02 kit. I'll replace the fuel filter tomorrow and take it for a longer test drive.

Skyman wrote:I guess today was one of the random days the car did not act up. Got a chance to hook up my wideband 02 kit. I'll replace the fuel filter tomorrow and take it for a longer test drive.

Oh good, I was wondering what kind of info that would give, and did not realize you were putting one in! If it goes super rich then one would think "no spark"; lean "no fuel". Gettin closer!

I'll report more next week on the status, and the O2 readings. Off to Scottsdale for three days, and right off again to Denver. I'll post the O2 information in the other thread. I also ordered a pickup coil just in case.

Kyle, How long are you going to be in Denver? I'll be out of town until Tuesday night. Maybe we can get together for a beer.

Paul

spaul wrote:Kyle, How long are you going to be in Denver? I'll be out of town until Tuesday night. Maybe we can get together for a beer.

Paul

I leave Tuesday around 5:30 or so. Southwest I think. Unless you are going to be at the airport Tuesday?

Skyman wrote:

spaul wrote:Kyle, How long are you going to be in Denver? I'll be out of town until Tuesday night. Maybe we can get together for a beer.

Paul

I leave Tuesday around 5:30 or so. Southwest I think. Unless you are going to be at the airport Tuesday?

Bummer I'm driving maybe next time.

Still no resolution to the problem. Car will remain running now, but once it gets warm, and I take it for a drive, it starts acting up. Drives nice and smooth. There seems to be a correlation between giving it full or partial full throttle. Once the tach hits around 3000 to 3500 RPM, the tach starts to go wild, and then the ignition issue becomes apparent. A couple of side notes. With a stock 12v coil, the issue is worse. Much worse. When running the MSD Blaster, the issue is less apparent. I have replaced the ignition module, tried different plug wires, disconnected the tach, inspected the cap and rotor etc.. I have a pick up coil I am going to try next.

Dave, how hard is it to replace the pick up coil? It looks like there is a roll pin that needs to be driven out to get to the coil. Do I need to pull the dizzy back out to replace the pick up coil?

I'm not really sure where to go from here. I have checked and replaced almost all the ignition components, and have replaced fuel filters, checked fuel pressure, checked jetting in the carbs, etc.. Do you think I need to get it to a shop with an oscilloscope?

Thanks!

Skyman:
This is all from memory - but I've done a few dozen, so should be pretty reliable
You can get to the pick-up coil with the distributor in the car, you do not need to remove the roll pin. It is easier out of the car just for access.
Remove cap and rotor, gently pry up the round reluctor (the 4- point metal piece just below the rotor) evenly with one screwdriver on either side. Remove the three screws in Stator (The "matching" metal piece on the distributor that surrounds the reluctor)- BE CAREFUL when lifting up the stator, as there is a flat round magnet directly underneath it. If this magnet breaks you'll need a replacement, or try your luck with gluing it back together - be very careful and try not to break it if possible - if it sticks to the stator, great, leave it alone! Watch for round metal spacers, they may fall out - don't let them drop into distributor!
Now simply twist the pick-up coil about 10 degrees counter clockwise and lift it up. Trace the wires to the module and remove. The little rubber plug says "RED and Green" on it so you will know where to put the new wires. Replace the coil - connect the wires routing them under the stator to the black box - then put the stator in DO NOT TIGHTEN the three screws yet. Gently put the reluctor back on being careful to make sure the "points" are NOT aligned with the stator - so there is no danger of them hitting each other. Once the relcutor is seated, check the alignment with the stator -make sure there is clearance in all 4 positions - move the stator as needed to ensure there is clearance and no rubbing! Once clear, tighten the three screws, and double check clearance. Replace rotor and cap, and fire it up!

Sorry I don't have any pictures here at work or I'd post for clarity.

Good luck!
Tom

Procedure is dead on. I would also recommend doing it out of the car, 5 minutes to remove it will save alot of time overall.