The Restoration of SRL311-0275

[jamesw]

Good question about the license plate trim.

The stock exhaust manifold is gone and replaced w/ a header which is pretty rusty. I think it's save-able if I get it blasted and coated, but I might just get a new one w/ flex pipe. The rest of the stock exhaust is there.

Cheers
James

[Alvin]

awesome, I like the the stock megaphone/resonator

I know it's a bit early for wheels but might I suggest something different/more period correct than Panasports?

RS Watanabe:


Even a mint set of Libras would give that classic look

imho a standard issue Panasport doesn't fit with the "period-correct" look

[dbrick]

I agree on the wheels, They set the tone of the car, stock wheels make it understated, modern 15" or 16" wheels work with a 2 stage paint job, but there is nothing like the classics. I don't dislike Panasports, they are just very commonly seen. If you can find something unique and in the style for the era you are going for, it makes the car unique.
IMHO, the Western Turbines on my car along with the color give it an early 70's look, but not a boy-racer/ricer style which is what I wanted to avoid. I think the 64 will get BIG 5 slots on the back and skinny ones up front.

http://www.dragtimes.com/parts/WESTERN- ... 71666.html

The Libras, Empis , 5 slots or even some of the odder ones,
Empis

AR LeMans

[jamesw]

Well, some people like those wheels, but I really don't like them. I got my stock wheels powdercoated and they will last a while, but in the meantime, I got some 15x7 and 15x6 Panasports.

Cheers
James

[dbrick]

As always, personal taste rules. Either way, it's fun to look at pictures

[jamesw]

I agree - and those turbine wheels definitely look cool.

Cheers
James

[dbrick]

I agree - and those turbine wheels definitely look cool.

Cheers
James

Except when you want to blast and paint them My assistant, the dog, got tired of watching me mask them, about half an hour each.

[RC240z]

Awesome James! Your's is very close to my Serial number, glad to see you bringing it back to life!!

[Skyman]

A little advice here. Stay away from the rear comp springs. Been there done that. I personally thought the ride was horrible, and actually made my car perform worse.

Kyle

[jamesw]

Thanks Ron. It's definitely a labor of love - and when I'm done I'll know the car in and out.

Skyman: gotcha. I have mono-leafs on my '69 and I really like them. We'll see about the 67 - maybe those or maybe stock springs in the rear.

Cheers
James

[Gregs672000]

If you're gonna do engine performance work, spend most of your time and money on proper porting of the head... that is where you will make most of your gains, even though the stock head is pretty good. Choose somebody good; simply hogging out the head is NOT the way to go, and unless they know what they are doing it is better to not let them touch it (my guy is good, but he is so busy you wouldn't see your head for months. Robello maybe? Others local to you may have recommendations). Replace brass seats with stainless steel. When the head is disassembled, make SURE the shop numbers the rockers unless you are having the cam and rockers reground (not many places are set up to do the rockers), otherwise they can wear each other out quickly. With the price and quality of gas and gas additives today, I would probably keep stock compression. I'm 11.7 to one, and while I like the power, I have to run octane boost on premium gas and recurved my dizzy a bit. Get an EI dizzy. Unless you wanna go crazy with lightening rods n stuff, for the bottom end simply balancing the motor is money well spent. Have the end of the jack shaft magnafluxed as they can crack, and consider having it drilled a bit deeper and having a stud fited in place of the bolt. Per Bob Sharp, there is a shearing effect at that point with the two gears, and the shaft is strengthened by doing this procedure (mine is fine, but it is an option). A lightened flywheel is great so long as it is not too light; remember, the lighter the more difficult it is to launch, and starts on a hill with a light flywheel, solexes and a big cam might be interesting. The oil pumps are generally bullet proof from what I understand, and very difficult to find new for that matter. Consider an electric fan and 3 core rad (elect fan if you're not stuck on stock). Check your timing gears closely... the chains are cheap, the gears are not. Look for chain strike damage on the side of the upper chain guide, also known as the evil "L", and chech your tensioners for excessive wear. If the guide is notched, cut the evil "L" off where it extends away from the head (bottom of the L). Shim the upper tensioner with a nylon shim to help keep the chain tighter on start up and before the oil tensions the unit (how much shim will be determined later when the motor is assembled). Leave out the bottom (small chain) chain guide; per Rallye, they are not necessary and often are found rattling around in the bottom of the engine. Mine is off and it has never been a problem. Check your crank pully/vibration dampener; it is two piece and they can separate.
That's all I can think of at the moment! Keep us posted!

[jamesw]

Thanks Greg - all good advice.

Major progress today too. I rented a car transporter and took the complete chassis in for cleaning and powdercoating. I found a local shop that LOVES Datsuns and they are going to do it for me. They're called Westside Powdercoating in Katy TX if anyone is interested. They did the valve cover on my '69 - and I highly recommend them.

Now that I took off the jute pads and swept it up a bit, the chassis is in GREAT shape - I'm very happy.

Cheers
James

[Alvin]

awesome! you aren't wasting anytime I like that!
please take lots of pictures so I can live vicariously through you
Are you running a roll bar or some sort? powdercoated?

[jamesw]

Hi Alvin,

Thanks. My short term goal really is to get the frame and body off to their respective shops before our second son is born. He's due on Thursday so I just barely made it!

Next I have to take all the chrome in but I'm just waiting for a few more things to come in the mail first so I can take it all in at once.

Cheers
James

[jamesw]

This past weekend:

Engine and tranny disconnected. Engine stripped, head and manifolds removed. Block ready to go to G&G Performance (great local shop) and I'll be shipping off the head for some work. The cam says "B" on the end and looks like it's in pretty good shape too.

Cheers
James