just bought 1600

[mraitch]

AFAIK, any filter will work with ANY oil - just a filter after all!

[greydog]

Regarding the Mobil 1 and K & N filter....
Lots of internet noise about oil filters and what's best....you can spend a lot of time reading but, in the end, real world wisdom says most any good brand filter will do it's intended job as well or better than the oem specs. Personally, I like Wix filters but have no personal proof that they're better (or worse) than Fram, Purolator or K & N.
My '90 300ZX has 125,000 miles on the engine...heads have never been off. I did some reading and thought I'd try Mobil 1 10-50 in it. The car, like my Roadsters is driven less than 1000 miles per year.
So, oil and filter change to Mobil 1 and Wix filter. Late this summer (about 2 years and 500 miles), I noticed a slight lifter tic that I hadn't heard before as well as an oil leak near the rear of the engine. I changed to Hi Mileage Carstorl 10-40 blend with a new Wix filter and the tic is gone as is the leak.
I'd read quite a bit of back and forth on Twinturbo.net about synthetic oil, both pro and con. My experience mirrored others but some had no trouble at all and swear by the Mobil 1.
Bottom line, if you want to run the synthetic, go ahead but don't be surprised if you develop a few small leaks. I found nothing that said doing so will actually cause damage to the engine so it's not going to hurt anything.
Dan

[bossbob]

As Dan has said, any filter should be good, the key is frequent oil and filter changes. That being said, my mustangs only get oil changes once a year, but have less than a 1000 miles on that oil. The roadster will get the same treatment.

As far as synthetic oils go, my understanding is that they have more of a slippery consistency and have the knack of finding small imperfections in gaskets and seals and cause leaks. Especially on older engines. If you are starting out with a fresh rebuild you should be fine, however on the older stuff not so much. I tried the synthetic on the Boss 302 and found a small leak, went back to 10/30 conventional oil and it was fine.

Lot's of opinions, and lot's of reading can be done on oils, my opinion, is good oil and frequent oil changes.

[augsburger]

Great intel. Confirmed what I originally suspected. Sounds like conventional oil/filter changes being driven by time not mileage is the better and cheaper alternative. Thanks

[mraitch]

3-4k changes work fine.

[augsburger]

Tires are here. Had to go with Yokohama 175/65r14's. Hope they work. Wanted Coker's or Michelins. Couldn't get the size wanted.

[augsburger]

One thing I don't like about the distributor on this car is that the electronic "match box" is in the way of nr. 4 plug. Even moving it, it is still in the way of a straight shot at the plug. Probably why it was cross threaded when I removed and had to chase the threads.
Cold adjusted the valves and advanced the timing to 20 btdc which really smoothed out the motor. Topped the SU's with Marvel Oil. Changed the oil which was horrific. The drain plug shoulder were rounded and someone put it on so tight I had to use a breaker bar to remove. Put an extended WIX filter for a little more oil capacity. Replacement oil tube on the way.
Removed the mechanical fuel pump and right hand alternator bracket to create some room. Blocked the hole with a Mr. Gasket block plate but the I didn't check the gasket which didn't cover the entire hole and pumped oil out all over my clean driveway. Fine. Redid with the fuel pump insulator block and a new thick handmade gasket. Am I having fun yet?
Ready for a test drive, get in the car and the gas pedal feels like it's welded in place. I can't get it to budge. The accelerator cable was completely bound inside the housing. Now waiting on a new one.
I just patted her on the fender and told her she could break in the garage any time she wanted.

[augsburger]

Now for the next: I really really dislike the headlights on the car. They are some kind of funky LED halogen whatever, that make the car look like a 69 Sprite. I have read all the posts I could on headlamps, and I have a couple questions. It appears that just the light harnesses were changed to accomodate the lamp connections. Anyone have a part nr. for replacement headlamps that will look normal? Is there anything else I need to do to make it work? Brackets and buckets look to be in good shape.

headlight1.jpg

headlamp connex1.jpg

[2mAn]

Hope this helps. Im sure there are people who can get you pieces you need.

https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/s ... /head-lamp

S311_025_-01.jpg

[augsburger]

Thanks for the help Simon. Got it. part nr. 26705-89925.

[mraitch]

what part are you missing - the numbers didn't show anything on google

i have a few head light bits / buckets etc.

[augsburger]

I only need the actual sealed beam lamp. All the hardware is good. A recommendation of a certain make/nr. would be great.

[2mAn]

I only need the actual sealed beam lamp. All the hardware is good. A recommendation of a certain make/nr. would be great.

If you just want lamps, that should be easy to get. Id send you mine if I already had replaced them. Send me pics of yours, maybe we can do a straight trade

-Simon

[greydog]

Sorta depends on what you want..
A standard 7" round hi/low sealed beam fits. I like the Silver Stars.
I have H4 headlights in Autopal housings in the '69...they look just like the original(ish) Toshibas in my '68.
There have been a few threads about LED headlights as well.

For my old eyes, it's less about the lamp itself than the light pattern so when I'm replacing a headlight, I try to get e-code housings. They have a better cut off so it seems more light is directed to the road ahead and the shoulder with less toward the center of the road and the sky.
If you search around a bit, you'll find lots of info regarding e-code vs dot lamps.

My '69 is all led now except the headlights and while I like the led headlights on my Passat. My GTI has hids and while they're very good, they're not as good as the 10 year newer tech of the leds. I like the idea of low current draw on the leds but have some concern with voltage issues with the old wiring so will probably do a direct dc power/relay power wiring this winter when I get bored.

Sorry for the rambling....just a few things to consider when you consider headlights.
Dan

[2mAn]

I want H4 e-codes also. I know the major difference from my VW days