Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Check the wiki for all the vendors. I don't think that pistons will be cheap. Are your stock ones still within spec? Ring grooves too? Is the rust damage beyond stock spec? How extensive is the damage?

Parts are available, but it will be a matter of budget. Since he's helping you, I might try honing until its clean then measure to see if you're still in spec or close. If not then its probably next size up time. It really depends on budget and what your comfort level is. Obviously next size up would be best, but sometimes one has to make compromises, and having the best info before you decide is important.

The pistons aren't the problem. It's the pitting in the cylinder walls that worries me. I'm taking the block to a local machine shop for their input. They're going to get it in the oven, inspect, and give me the news.

I'll check the wiki, but I've seem $450 for oversized pistons from datsunparts.com. Is that about the going rate?

Bad news from the machine shop today. It turns out that my U20 motor is already bored over .060. The extra cost of sleeving the block, plus all the parts is starting to make me second guess rebuilding this motor right now.

I have a R16 motor that turns. I'm now planning on getting this motor on an engine stand to see how is runs. If it's ok, I'll mate it up to the 5-speed for the time being (I already modified the frame for the 5-speed trans).

Once the project's done and on the road, I'll revisit rebuilding the U20 motor.

Any Suggestions? Is there a topic post on setting up a engine test stand? How about a forum topic on a R16 motor and a 5-speed transmittion?

R16 and a 5 speed has been done many times, quick search should turn up plenty of info. It's very straightforward, mostly a matter of collecting the right parts.
I have done this on my 67.5 1600.

thanks. After I wrote my post i did some searching and for the posts and the wiki tech page on it. go info there.

Now I need to find out about the 1600 motor. A 1967 SPL311 came with a R16, correct?

Correct, any car with the Serial number SPL311xxxxx came with the R1600. (SRL311xxxxx is the U-20 and SPL310xxxxx is the 1500)

R16 with a 5-speed works fine - I had one in Eliza - you get the benefit of the overdrive (5th) - good for fuel economy - but you still miss the 'grunt/torque' Just need a few bits and cutting of the area around the shift lever.
It won't improve car performance - but will do better on the freeway.

mshort07 wrote:Bad news from the machine shop today. It turns out that my U20 motor is already bored over .060. The extra cost of sleeving the block, plus all the parts is starting to make me second guess rebuilding this motor right now.

I have a R16 motor that turns. I'm now planning on getting this motor on an engine stand to see how is runs. If it's ok, I'll mate it up to the 5-speed for the time being (I already modified the frame for the 5-speed trans).

Once the project's done and on the road, I'll revisit rebuilding the U20 motor.

Any Suggestions? Is there a topic post on setting up a engine test stand? How about a forum topic on a R16 motor and a 5-speed transmittion?

U20 blocks show up from time to time. I've never looked closely, but could one use an R16 block with a U20 head? Is the only critical difference the pushrods? The jackshaft takes the place of the cam, the crank and rods are the difference for stroke, right? Chain guides should bolt up (?). The pushrod holes are not pressurized or exposed to oil are they? Seems like, if the head gasket covers up the holes I don't see why this would not work, but as stated I have never looked at this, though I am sure others have...

that's a neat idea. I'll have to look into it. For now I'm going to focus on building the engine test stand and seeing what the R16 will do, or if I can even get it to start up and run. When I picked up the car with the R16 in it, the guy said it ran when he parked it.

How about a stroker? R16 block, U20 crank, you're in business!
Dan

stroker - not sure if U20 pistons work in R16 head - plus you have to get the U20 crank machined at the pulley end

U20 pistons work fine with an R16 head. Why not try to make the 1600 run in the parts car? Cheaper and easier than building a test stand...

The magic in a U20 is in the head... Especially modified...

does Patrick Mahoney still do the bolt packs as described in the WIKI tech section?

I don't think so. At least that's what I found while looking. What I did was take the list of what came in that bolt kit to my local Fastenal and they put together all the right stuff for me.