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Re: Orlando Engine Swap Project
Posted: Sun May 14, 2017 8:29 pm
by denniswagnerusa
David,
Here is a photo of my engine compartment. Not much room for the reservoir and bracket but maybe an aftermarket solution is in order, maybe next to the intake.
tn_IMG_6681.JPG
Re: Orlando Engine Swap Project
Posted: Sun May 14, 2017 8:44 pm
by spl310
Washer bag on the passenger fender well.
Re: Orlando Engine Swap Project
Posted: Tue May 16, 2017 7:03 pm
by denniswagnerusa
I'm going to try a reservoir in the trunk. It was cheap so if it doesn't work then I will look at other options. The only question is if the pump will move water that far so I will see.
Re: Orlando Engine Swap Project
Posted: Tue May 16, 2017 7:09 pm
by pebbles
denniswagnerusa wrote:I'm going to try a reservoir in the trunk. It was cheap so if it doesn't work then I will look at other options. The only question is if the pump will move water that far so I will see.
A GOOD pump should drain the tank. So it shouldn't be a problem moving the fluid that far the first time. The line should hold pressure once its primed.
Re: Orlando Engine Swap Project
Posted: Mon Aug 07, 2017 6:11 am
by TurboRagtop
Since you are open to suggestions, I would rethink the Volvo caliper approach to the brakes. 280 ZX brakes just seem to make much more sense, and are lighter as well.
Re: Orlando Engine Swap Project
Posted: Wed Aug 09, 2017 12:13 pm
by denniswagnerusa
The car is back from the painter and the exterior is back together. Rechromed bumpers, side molding, bezels, and trunk handle have been installed. Will post some photos soon. Working on the interior now with installation of the carpets and console with Volvo lid. Cup holders are a big plus with the Volvo lid. Going well. Retracting 3 point mount seatbelts have been installed on the driver side with the top mount being attached to the newly painted roll bar. New MOMO steering wheel and leather seats are also added. Will post photos of that also. Taking a break from my 91 degree garage.
I had posted a question under another section about my doors that have always latched weakly so that they could fly open on a curve if they had not been locked. I judged the problem to be a weak spiral spring in the latch mechanism so new latch assemblies were ordered through Rallye ($150/pr) and that solved the problem. The doors close very solidly now especially with the new weatherstripping and bumpers. The weatherstripping from Dean was a joy to work with, installing easily with a gentle ball peen hammer and no glue. I am not going to put the aluminum strips back around the doors because it looks better without.
Does any know what the wire bundle that exits behind the radio that includes several black/white and a yellow/blue wire is for? The connectors do not look like they have ever been used and I think it laid under my carpeting since I've owned the car. They appear to be part of the original wiring harness. I cannot find any matching wire combinations on the wiring diagrams and do not seem to have any need for additional wires in the center of the dash or console.
Having a problem with my ignition. The ignition key sometimes needs to be jiggled to get the fuel and temp gauges and turn signals to work. Is a new switch needed? Has anyone used Dean's reconditioned ignition switches?
Re: Orlando Engine Swap Project
Posted: Mon Oct 22, 2018 11:13 pm
by Alvin
Re: Orlando Engine Swap Project
Posted: Thu Nov 01, 2018 9:10 pm
by TurboRagtop
How did you get the 3-inch exhaust to fit? Like did you route it over or under the rear axle?
How about through the frame?