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Re: Red wire and maybe oil level sender?

Posted: Mon Feb 21, 2022 12:24 pm
by Bwk2000
josemariagervacio wrote: Mon Feb 21, 2022 9:23 am What would The oil cut off would be connected to?
Normally it would mean wiring the oil pressure switch inline with the electric fuel pump. A potential issue with this method is hard starting, as it may take several seconds to generate enough oil pressure to activate the fuel pump. Some people install a bypass switch under the dash to disable the oil cutoff while pressed allowing the fuel pump to operate immediately.

For one car I owned and converted to an electric fuel pump system (years ago), I simply installed a fuel shut off switch wired between the fuel pump and the tach … No RPMs, no fuel - Problem solved.

Re: Red wire and maybe oil level sender?

Posted: Mon Feb 21, 2022 12:26 pm
by josemariagervacio
Ok. Thankss

Re: Red wire and maybe oil level sender?

Posted: Mon Feb 21, 2022 1:19 pm
by rwmann
Or you could install an inertia (high-G shock) fuel pump cutoff. That will kill the fuel pump as soon as the reference level shock, typically 10-12Gs is encountered, be it a collision, rollover, or other event, even if the engine would otherwise have kept running for a while, producing oil pressure.

Re: Red wire and maybe oil level sender?

Posted: Mon Feb 21, 2022 3:26 pm
by Gregs672000
rwmann wrote: Mon Feb 21, 2022 1:19 pm Or you could install an inertia (high-G shock) fuel pump cutoff. That will kill the fuel pump as soon as the reference level shock, typically 10-12Gs is encountered, be it a collision, rollover, or other event, even if the engine would otherwise have kept running for a while, producing oil pressure.
This was my plan, and I have the switch but have never wired it in as it also requires some solid place to mount it so it works right. If it's shaking around it can switch itself off. The switch is from a late '80s Ford Escort, located in the trunk.

Agree that a stock mechanical pump is generally a better choice, especially when you have a new one! The only thing to be careful of is that it has the same arm as the stock one, that the in and out fuel lines are matched up, and the oblong on the cam is not worn out (its probably fine). Regarding the filter, one of the issues people run into is rust and crud in the tank, so check your filters and consider swapping it out several times to keep the stuff from reaching the carbs if they show crud in them. Not unusual for folks to have to clean/blowout the fuel lines in a car that's been sitting long term. At some point you will probably want to inspect the inside of the tank via the fuel sender access plate for excessive rust or crud.