Heater Hose Replacement
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- Model: 2000
- Year: High Windshield-68-70
Heater Hose Replacement
I’m sure this has been discussed but I could not find -How difficult is it to remove and replace the heater hoses? Is there a step by step guide posted? Thanks in advance
Willard Crawford
Kentucky
1969 SRL311
Kentucky
1969 SRL311
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Re: Heater Hose Replacement
Here are the two hoses that are tapered 5/8 to 1/2. that Curtis found. Cut to size. Can't help on the small little hose coming off the valve. Scroll down the page a bit.
Gates 18485 and 18051. 18485 may be NLA. But from the link I sent DEVO said 18501 worked for both hoses.
viewtopic.php?t=32639&start=75
Gates 18485 and 18051. 18485 may be NLA. But from the link I sent DEVO said 18501 worked for both hoses.
viewtopic.php?t=32639&start=75
1967 1600 in waiting SPL311-09002 / R-28178
2018 Hyundai Elantra GT Sport Ultimate
2018 Hyundai Elantra GT Sport Ultimate
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Re: Heater Hose Replacement
Hardest part is getting your body and arms w/tools and light under the passenger footwell, several times. Someone who knows more than me may/hopefully will edit this. My .02 cents:
1. Clamp upper and lower hoses with needle nose v/grips at firewall, engine side. (also see #6 below)
2. Clamp small hose at control valve under dash at tank/heater box with v/grip, (you'll need 3ea. small & cheap.)
3. Remove (pull-back) carpet, get rags and a small cup (1/2 plastic soda bottle) ready to catch & protect interior floor from spills.
4. Remove hose clamps (on the hoses coming from engine that are already clamped on the engine side of F/wall), one at the valve, one at tank. (a bit of coolant between engine side v/grips and clamp at heater box will drain toward you), be ready to catch. These hoses will likely be old, tight and a fight, be patient -----the tank and valve have soft metal and you can damage/deform their metal/hose connection points easily.
5. Pull detached hoses from firewall engine side (v/grips still on), try to care for the grommets when pulling through, using a friend or a rig hold them high enough to drain residual back to water pump.
6. At this point you will likely drain some additional coolant, (bottom of radiator valve); enough to ensure hoses are empty, remove v/grips. If your bay is pristine, stuff rags in the hose ends before removing the v/grips. (You can also start the process by initially draining the rad. but some coolant will be trapped no matter.)
7. Remove front hose clamps at water pump and manifold tube, remove old hoses.
8. Install new hoses, push through F/wall grommet(s) to tank & valve, hose clamp those points, clamp at manifold and water pump. Personally, I pre-lube the grommets and inside the hose ends with a very small bit of oil so they slide-on each connection readily.
9. Fill rad and burp. (read the write-up in tech).
1. Clamp upper and lower hoses with needle nose v/grips at firewall, engine side. (also see #6 below)
2. Clamp small hose at control valve under dash at tank/heater box with v/grip, (you'll need 3ea. small & cheap.)
3. Remove (pull-back) carpet, get rags and a small cup (1/2 plastic soda bottle) ready to catch & protect interior floor from spills.
4. Remove hose clamps (on the hoses coming from engine that are already clamped on the engine side of F/wall), one at the valve, one at tank. (a bit of coolant between engine side v/grips and clamp at heater box will drain toward you), be ready to catch. These hoses will likely be old, tight and a fight, be patient -----the tank and valve have soft metal and you can damage/deform their metal/hose connection points easily.
5. Pull detached hoses from firewall engine side (v/grips still on), try to care for the grommets when pulling through, using a friend or a rig hold them high enough to drain residual back to water pump.
6. At this point you will likely drain some additional coolant, (bottom of radiator valve); enough to ensure hoses are empty, remove v/grips. If your bay is pristine, stuff rags in the hose ends before removing the v/grips. (You can also start the process by initially draining the rad. but some coolant will be trapped no matter.)
7. Remove front hose clamps at water pump and manifold tube, remove old hoses.
8. Install new hoses, push through F/wall grommet(s) to tank & valve, hose clamp those points, clamp at manifold and water pump. Personally, I pre-lube the grommets and inside the hose ends with a very small bit of oil so they slide-on each connection readily.
9. Fill rad and burp. (read the write-up in tech).
68' 2L solex- in progress
68' 2L SU- driver, 69' 2L next
68' 2L SU- driver, 69' 2L next
- theunz
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Re: Heater Hose Replacement
Great advice above. I might just add that removing the seat is just 4 nuts and washers from underneath the car and makes any behind the dash endeavor much more comfortable. Just be careful that you don’t break one of the seat studs as they can be frozen up due to age, penetrating fluid helps.
Mike M
Old enough to know better, too old to remember why!
1969 2000 solex mine since 1972, under resurrection. (Finally resurrected as of spring 2019!)
1969 Porsche 911s -worth more, but not as valuable! Gone!
2017 Lotus Evora 400 - Oh my!!
Old enough to know better, too old to remember why!
1969 2000 solex mine since 1972, under resurrection. (Finally resurrected as of spring 2019!)
1969 Porsche 911s -worth more, but not as valuable! Gone!
2017 Lotus Evora 400 - Oh my!!
- Gregs672000
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Re: Heater Hose Replacement
Love how helpful this family is! I'd add, if you end up removing the seat, that would be a good time to add the suggested wider washers to the underside to keep the bolts from pulling through the floor in an accident (originally recommended by Dan at Rallye after his accident).
Greg Burrows
'67 2000 #588
Tacoma, WA
'67 2000 #588
Tacoma, WA