New '68 Forever Project

[Gregs672000]

Ya, I'm trying to remember if you need to remove the steering wheel so you can tap the shaft off the splined connector at the box. Removing the steering wheel can result in some parts/spring for the horn flying out, so be careful. I wouldn't remove the pitman arm off the box until I know for sure that the box (and not just the idler on the passenger side) is worn out. Before anything, I'd disconnect all the rest of the tie rods etc off the box and idler so you can move the steering box and idler through their movements and checking for side to side play in the shafts the pitman arms and ultimately the rest of the steering rods are connected to. I'd not remove the steering wheel or the box or idler off the frame until the tie rods are removed and you can see if the box and idler are bad (idler most likely). The steering box uses a worm gear, and most of the time the gear wears and causes steering slop right in the "center" (pointing you straight down the road) where it spends most of its time. That can be tightened up some (loosen the locking nut around the shaft that has a slot cut into it for a screw driver to turn it, adjust then lock down again and check steering wheel for bind) but can cause binding elsewhere, so note that you don't want it too tight and do move the steering wheel through a couple turns like you would do when driving the car. At the center you want a little steering wheel movement without the tire moving, but not a lot of slop. Proper lube can help with some slop too. The idler box on the other hand tends to wear out the bushing for the shaft, so the shaft moves side to side (rebuilding the idler involves rebushing it and replacing seals). If the steering box seems relatively OK, you can avoid having to remove the steering wheel, shaft and box itself all of which MAY be OK. Its usually the idler box bushing that's bad.

For separating and removing the tie rods, you will need a tool that is designed to separate the tie rods... usually a "pickle fork" or tie rod separator. To remove the "castle" nuts on the rods, remove the cotter pin then unbolt the nut, then use the tool to separate the connection.

Regarding the carbs, it often is a matter of getting your hands and body into some awkward positions, taking your time, and sometimes moving a nut or bolt a fraction at a time (cars teach patience, breath deep when needed, step away at times, KNOW you will eventually get it). Some remove the intake and exhaust manifolds with the carbs in place, but it's been a while for me and a different engine. Still requires the patience and body/hand positioning dance.

[Kinnaird]

Sorry for the delay in any response, life stuff came up and got in the way of changing anything. Finally got moved and have a garage now to start working on it again. I’ve decided on a full frame off restoration on top of an engine swap. I plan on going with a 2.3L Ecoboost inline four, kind of keeping the inline 4 spirit but going the cobra route of updating a non-US car with a “US” engine. I know I’ll have a lot of work ahead of me but I already plan on this taking years to complete. I got a lot of little ideas I wanna do to it so I got my work cut out for me but plan on using this as a learning car too for my first project car. Any help and recommendations in the future will be greatly appreciated! I look forward to sharing this journey with everyone here.

[Kinnaird]

Still open to other engine concepts though as plans change in the future haha