Of Mice and Men...and the Ratster

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MarK Bennett

Of Mice and Men...and the Ratster

Post by MarK Bennett »

So while waiting for parts Don and I alley-ooped the ratsters engine and trans. The further I go on the tear down the weirder the story. When the intake and exhaust came off there was so much permatex gasket seal that it squished out and into the exhaust and intake ports! The fact it was still in the exhaust port seems to me to mean that this engine maybe only ran for a couple of minutes after it was put back together. Once I got the head off I got another surprise...brand new .o5 over pistons and rust free cylinder walls! Since this thing hasn't been on the road since 86 we're going to re ring it etc but it looks like the bore is all good....later on progress.

Couple of questions: Do any of the users out there recognise the car? 1970 SPL31127633? I'd like to ask a couple of questions, and I promise I won't mention your name in vain! :wink:

#2 I bought an engine seal and gasket kit from Nissan (123 bucks CDN, talk about cheap!) Anyways I got a lot of cork for my money, which I expected but I was surprised to find the rear main seal is a piece of rope!!! Ihaven't done one of these since I can't remember when. Is there a new style rear main available or am I stuck with HEMP!

As always I appreciate your imput!

Cheers Mark
'70 ratster
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SLOroadster
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Rear main

Post by SLOroadster »

If it looks like the rear main is ok, don't mess with it. In order to install a new rear main, you need to pull the crank out. It is the only way to do it. Trust me.
Why are you tearing this thing apart? If it looks good, (aside from the permatex mess) its probably ready to go.

Will
Sorry, I find modern engine swaps revolting. Keep your G, R, or U series in your Roadster!
Guest

Post by Guest »

I'm concerned for a couple of reasons: The car's been sitting since 86, I can't imagine that the rings like that. The other thing is that I find that the pistons are still really stiff. Without the head on I thought that I chould be able to turn the crank pulley by hand but I can't.. I'd hate to put this thing together and spin a bearing in it or something. Am I crazy?
Mark
70MTroadster

sitting a while

Post by 70MTroadster »

my 70 1600 sat for 12 years and I got it running again without tearing it all apart. I did turn it over by hand before firing it and even built me an extension that I could use to spin the oil pump to prime the oil pressure before starting the engine. But after doing so, even though it had sat for so long, it runs like crazy with no worries at all. You should be able to put a socket on the crank pulley nut and turn the engine over without "standing" on the ratchet. My engine worked just fine after sitting for so many years, but I could not turn it by hand either.....because it was so TIGHT after a rebuild......I only know this NOW because I just tore the engine apart for a stroker project to 2 liters and found that the crank had been turned 10-10 and the pistons are standard with hone marks still showing in the cylinder walls........ :shock:

my 2 cents worth....

Scott
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Minh
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Post by Minh »

Yeah your stuck with the rope seal.

There was a question if a neoprene seal alternative existed. No answer from what I remember.

I am sure a few of us would be interested in the existance of a neoprene rear main seal.
'69 1982cc SU
'74 1600cc VW Bug
http://www.311s.org/registry/1969/srl311-07837.html
When life hands you lemons, ask for TEQUILA AND SALT!
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SLOroadster
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Starting engines

Post by SLOroadster »

My car sat for 6 years before I started it. I did how ever pull it through with some thin oil so everything would be lubed before starting it. I did the same thing with SRL 455, and that thing had been sitting for the better part of 20 years. We checked the compression on it before starting it, made sure the upper part of the engine was lubed, then plugged in the coil and crossed our fingers. If your engine looks new of course it will be tight. The rings havent seated, they are dry as well. I have yet to see a brand new engine start and pull through as freely as one that is broken in. As long as everything looks to be good to go, it probably is.
When #455 started, I was blown away, it caught and settled into a fairly smooth idle of about 800 RPM. That was with a very cruddy set of solexs and no choke. I think you are good to go unless you visibly see something wrong.

Will
Sorry, I find modern engine swaps revolting. Keep your G, R, or U series in your Roadster!
Mark Bennett

Post by Mark Bennett »

Ok guys, I'll take your word for it. I'm going to pull the pan off (its leaking and I've got the gasket) and take a look. If I don't see anything scary I guess we'll leave the bottom end alone. Now if the carbs and dizzy get here I'll have enough stuff to get the Ratster's heart beating again. :)

Cheers
Mark
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