Rust rust rust

Place to put those little tricks or parts you used during the restoration of your roadster.

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diverlloyd
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Rust rust rust

Post by diverlloyd »

So it's not as bad as the description. I stripped the roadster of all wiring and everything else so it's down to just the shell and frame. I was wondering if any of you have experience with rust converters. I read through all the material on here and it seems still to be a debated topic.

I need to replace some small areas in the floor pans but have some rust at a lot of the metal to metal joints(window frame to cowl for example). Will the converter be worth trying to use on the areas where I can not clean the rust all the way off? The rust isn't that bad but I would like to be safe then sorry.

Also was thinking of trying it out on a boat trailer as a test before using it on any joints on the roadster.
So any input good or bad will be very welcome and thanks for read and or replying in advance.
When in doubt whip the hammer out.
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Skyman
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Re: Rust rust rust

Post by Skyman »

I don't think any product will stop the rust once it has started. They may slow the process, but once it starts, it will need to be cut out to stop the spread. I used a product called Rust Bullet. No rust appearing as of yet. It's only been 4 or 5 years though. I really like the finish.

http://www.rustbullet.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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notoptoy
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Re: Rust rust rust

Post by notoptoy »

I think you are wise to try and slow it down if not stop it until you can get it totally fixed or eradicated. Plus the temporary fix may well last a very long time - beyond the time it takes you to get it completely addressed. There are several business based totally on their claims of ability to stop rust _ POR-15 being only one.
"When all else fails, force prevails!" Ummm, we're gonna need a bigger hammer here.

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diverlloyd
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Re: Rust rust rust

Post by diverlloyd »

Yeah I have been reading up on the subject and I'm torn between a couple of products. The por-15 has good and bad reviews but most of the bad reviews seem to be operator err. The places I wanted to use it are where there are seams sandwiched together or spots that at impossible to get to lie the inner fender box. I know there is rust in there since the previous owner has put holes ion both sides for reasons only they know and can understand. And again thank you guys for the input. I think I am fortunate to only be replacing 4 o5 inches of floor pan and even more so to have a friend scrapping out a 65 ford truck. So I can use all the metal off of it I want the same era metal for the same era car:)
When in doubt whip the hammer out.
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notoptoy
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Re: Rust rust rust

Post by notoptoy »

Same era metal may be one thing, but I suspect the American tin will be thicker and tougher to work with!
"When all else fails, force prevails!" Ummm, we're gonna need a bigger hammer here.

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Re: Rust rust rust

Post by greydog »

Ive used ruct converter on both our roadsters. I like a product bt Mar Hyde called One Step. I did a little experiment where I used it in a rusted hunk of floor pan. After a few days I took a sander to it. No rust color present just the black coating over metal.
Both our rosdsters floors use this on rusty (but not rust thru) spots followdd by sprayon undercoat followed by sound deadening with carpet on top. Works well on our '69 so I did t h esame on the '68.
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diverlloyd
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Re: Rust rust rust

Post by diverlloyd »

Thanks guys and yeah that ford tin is much nicer it's thicker and I believe was less prone to laminations like the old international scouts had issues with
When in doubt whip the hammer out.
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