Oil Pressure Problem

[Ldino21]

Anyone ever heard of a problem like this and how to fix it. It was left on my Website:

I have a SRL 311 Vin 07510 Fairlady.. For most part it's in good shape Hope to have it in a show next year..I have a high oil pressure problem which at any unknown time it will blow a oil filter( with oil every where.). any suggestions will be great Ed

elewislot101@hotmail.com

Thanks for your help guys

Lou Smaldino

[S Allen]

Stuck pressure relief valve. Replace oil pump as valve is in pump.

Steve

[Minh]

Looks like you're gonna a new oil pump and maybe an pan gasket too.

You can buy an pump gasket or cut your own out of gasket paper.

That pan gasket is gonna either come out in one piece or pieces depending on how old it is or how tight a fit it was put on.

Oil pump goes "should" go for about $30 new.

[DatsunBucky]

Is the oil pump on the U that much different than on the R? I took the pressure pop-off valve and shimmed it a bit for higher oil pressure. If the U is the same, it can be disassembled by removing a cotter pin, cleaned, and reassembled. Having no experience with the U motors, maybe it's different, but that's what could be done on the R.

Hey! We had an "R" in the middle sixties! Honda is copying US!!

[S Allen]

Bucky,

Good point-they do appear by all outward appearances to similair in design. I am almost sure you could disassemble and clean. Much cheaper prospect than buying a new one. There really is not much to them any way. I had heard about the trick to pump up the volume. It sounds like you have done that before!

Steve

[Minh]

Is there a right up for that higher pressure trick?

[DatsunBucky]

This isn't exactly a "write-up" for the procedure in question, but here's my rembrance of the way I did it:

It's been a while since I did that to my oil pump, but what I did was to remove the cotter pin that holds (in the order that they come out) a washer, spring and checkball in place. The pin is on the small side, but from what I remember, it's kinda obvious. Straighten the pin but don't remove it from its hole. Then push down the washer with needle nose pliers and remove the pin before you let the tension off the assembly. Let the spring pressure off gradually.

I replaced the washer with a thicker one I had that fit the opening, but I didn't do any definitive tests before and after to see what the end result was. I used the needle-nose pliers to push the washer/spring assembly back into the hole so I could get the pin back in. If you follow this route, be sure to use a new pin. Take the old one to just about any hardware store and do a stare-and-compare to get another the same size. Buy two, so you have an extra. Having a spare has always worked out for me to be a good way to make sure the first one works. No spare=second trip to the store.

Replacing the washer with a thicker one seemed to be a lot easier way to increase oil pressure than finding and installing a stiffer spring.

Other than replacing the washer, if you're just cleaning, then reuse everything except the cotter pin. If it's really gummed up (and thus the reason for the high oil pressure), then the checkball may be a little difficult to remove. Let it soak in the cleaner of your choice for a bit, and/or judiciously apply some air pressure to the other side of the checkball. If you do that, make sure your finger or thumb is over the hole so the ball doesn't shoot out and roll under something that it'll never come out from under. If you can even find it.

Hope this helps some.

[spl310]

The Bob Sharp Racing manual suggested shimming the pump relief valve by 1/8" to increase the pressure. As I recall, they were getting a little over 100PSI when the engine was cold. That means that if you shim the pump, you should peg the gauge as it is only good for about 90PSI.