1967 1/2 fuse idenifacation
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- Roadster Nut
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1967 1/2 fuse idenifacation
Can anybody take a photo of a stock fuse panel and identify what the fuse services. The last terminal or bottom terminal has now power to it and I am trying to clean things up and understand my system. 1967.5 1600. Stock I think. Had the car two weeks can't wait to see some other cars to compare and create some idea of what I should be trying to do
- bikermike
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Re: 1967 1/2 fuse identification
Have you checked the wiring diagram in the techwiki?
http://www.311s.org/PDFs/1967_5%20%20Da ... 20rev4.pdf
The terminals on my car's fuse box are stamped. I made a table for myself a while back...
Terminal B - From Battery Via Starter (Green / White)
to 20A fuse to
Terminal H - To Horn and Cig Lighter
circuit is always hot
Terminal A - From Alternator (White) and Ammeter (-) (Black)
to 30A fuse to
Terminal L - To Lights - Red and Red/Green
circuit is always hot
Terminal IG - From Ignition Switch and unfused to Ignition Coil (+) via Ballast Resistor and unfused to Voltage Reg (all Black / White)
to 20A fuse to Terminal F - To Flashers (Green) and Washer Pump, Heater, Oil Pressure Gauge, Gauge V-reg (Green/Blue)
to 8A fuse to Terminal W - To Wipers (Blue/ Red) and Reverse Light (Red/Black)
circuit is hot when ignition switch is in "ON" position
Note - Factory AM radio is unfused from fuse box, but has its own 2A fuse in-line under dash from ammeter neg.
http://www.311s.org/PDFs/1967_5%20%20Da ... 20rev4.pdf
The terminals on my car's fuse box are stamped. I made a table for myself a while back...
Terminal B - From Battery Via Starter (Green / White)
to 20A fuse to
Terminal H - To Horn and Cig Lighter
circuit is always hot
Terminal A - From Alternator (White) and Ammeter (-) (Black)
to 30A fuse to
Terminal L - To Lights - Red and Red/Green
circuit is always hot
Terminal IG - From Ignition Switch and unfused to Ignition Coil (+) via Ballast Resistor and unfused to Voltage Reg (all Black / White)
to 20A fuse to Terminal F - To Flashers (Green) and Washer Pump, Heater, Oil Pressure Gauge, Gauge V-reg (Green/Blue)
to 8A fuse to Terminal W - To Wipers (Blue/ Red) and Reverse Light (Red/Black)
circuit is hot when ignition switch is in "ON" position
Note - Factory AM radio is unfused from fuse box, but has its own 2A fuse in-line under dash from ammeter neg.
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Last edited by bikermike on Thu Sep 26, 2013 5:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.
-Mike
1967.5 SPL311
1972 240z / L28
2003 BMW 525i Touring
2014 Jeep KL
1967.5 SPL311
1972 240z / L28
2003 BMW 525i Touring
2014 Jeep KL
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- Roadster Nut
- Posts: 60
- Joined: Tue May 15, 2012 11:02 pm
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Re: 1967 1/2 fuse idenifacation
I have no power at b terminal or h terminal. Does the battery wire route straight from the starter to the b terminal ?
- bikermike
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Re: 1967 1/2 fuse idenifacation
I assume you have power at "A" and "IG" and you are only trying to figure out why "B" is dead, right?
If you have no power at "B" then it follows that you wouldn't have power at "H" either since "B" is its source.
So to troubleshoot "B" trace the green/white wire to a 3 terminal connector under the air cleaner that goes to the starter harness. It should be towards the rear carb and firewall.
Is that connector properly seated? If you unplug the connector do you have power there on the G/W wire coming up from the starter? Do you have continuity from the connector back to the "B" terminal? I would try to isolate the fault to upstream or downstream of that connector and keep working your way backwards or forwards from there.
Usual suspects are a damaged wire in the starter harness or an bad terminal along the way. A wire may have gotten close to the exhaust and burned through.
You could run a jumper from the battery to the "B" terminal to test the rest of your wiring downstream of the fusebox, but ultimately you'd want to understand where the upstream failure is.
In the stock wiring, the + cable from the battery goes to the starter where it feeds the the circuit to the 'B" terminal and also the circuit to the ammeter.
Good luck.
If you have no power at "B" then it follows that you wouldn't have power at "H" either since "B" is its source.
So to troubleshoot "B" trace the green/white wire to a 3 terminal connector under the air cleaner that goes to the starter harness. It should be towards the rear carb and firewall.
Is that connector properly seated? If you unplug the connector do you have power there on the G/W wire coming up from the starter? Do you have continuity from the connector back to the "B" terminal? I would try to isolate the fault to upstream or downstream of that connector and keep working your way backwards or forwards from there.
Usual suspects are a damaged wire in the starter harness or an bad terminal along the way. A wire may have gotten close to the exhaust and burned through.
You could run a jumper from the battery to the "B" terminal to test the rest of your wiring downstream of the fusebox, but ultimately you'd want to understand where the upstream failure is.
In the stock wiring, the + cable from the battery goes to the starter where it feeds the the circuit to the 'B" terminal and also the circuit to the ammeter.
Good luck.
-Mike
1967.5 SPL311
1972 240z / L28
2003 BMW 525i Touring
2014 Jeep KL
1967.5 SPL311
1972 240z / L28
2003 BMW 525i Touring
2014 Jeep KL
- notoptoy
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Re: 1967 1/2 fuse idenifacation
Very nice summary Mike!
"When all else fails, force prevails!" Ummm, we're gonna need a bigger hammer here.
67.5 SPL311 H20 w/5 speed
65 Impala Convertible
2017 C43 AMG
67.5 SPL311 H20 w/5 speed
65 Impala Convertible
2017 C43 AMG
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- Roadster Nut
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Re: 1967 1/2 fuse idenifacation
The po loved masking tape and zip ties (grrrrr). I have gotten down to the starter and found one wire just hanging their not the culprit. Still looking. Thanks for the help.
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- Roadster Nut
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Re: 1967 1/2 fuse idenifacation
I have three wires going to the starer plus the battery wire is that correct
- bikermike
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Re: 1967 1/2 fuse idenifacation
As indicated in the wiring diagram
http://www.311s.org/PDFs/1967_5%20%20Da ... n%20false;
you should have the battery cable and 3 wires going to the starter. The 3 wires are the ones in the connector beneath the air cleaner. Note that the wire from the ignition switch goes to a different terminal on the starter solenoid than the rest of them.
Check out this thread for a pic of a starter harness: http://311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f= ... ss#p123026
Given that the previous owner has done some re-wiring, you may want to confirm that the wires to the "A" and "B" fusebox terminals have not been swapped. Confirm the colors of the wires going to "A", "B" and "IG" or check continuity w/ an ohmmeter if the colors are different on any replacement wires. Maybe you have an issue with a different circuit that is mis-wired to the fusebox - just a thought.
Also look for simple things like a poorly crimped ring connector at the fusebox. A little cleaning w/ sandpaper on the terminals and ring connectors wouldn't hurt either.
http://www.311s.org/PDFs/1967_5%20%20Da ... n%20false;
you should have the battery cable and 3 wires going to the starter. The 3 wires are the ones in the connector beneath the air cleaner. Note that the wire from the ignition switch goes to a different terminal on the starter solenoid than the rest of them.
Check out this thread for a pic of a starter harness: http://311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f= ... ss#p123026
Given that the previous owner has done some re-wiring, you may want to confirm that the wires to the "A" and "B" fusebox terminals have not been swapped. Confirm the colors of the wires going to "A", "B" and "IG" or check continuity w/ an ohmmeter if the colors are different on any replacement wires. Maybe you have an issue with a different circuit that is mis-wired to the fusebox - just a thought.
Also look for simple things like a poorly crimped ring connector at the fusebox. A little cleaning w/ sandpaper on the terminals and ring connectors wouldn't hurt either.
-Mike
1967.5 SPL311
1972 240z / L28
2003 BMW 525i Touring
2014 Jeep KL
1967.5 SPL311
1972 240z / L28
2003 BMW 525i Touring
2014 Jeep KL